MADAGASCAR 1998/99

ACG RECOGNISANCE & EXPEDITION

by Roger Gullidge

INTRODUCTION

Madagascar is the fourth largest island world-wide situated in the Indian Ocean off the south-east coast of Africa. The island covers 360,000 sq. miles. The coastal areas east and west are divided by the north-south central highlands. According to Geologists David Du Puy and Justin Moat ‘Madagascar simplified geology’. The major limestone areas are in the north and west. The north has been extensively explored, notably by the French. The Mendip Caving Group were exploring one of the western areas in September 1998. The area that interested us was Ankara and Kelifely in the north west. The Mahavany River divides and Kelifely and to date offers the only way in to this remote semi-desert location.

THE REECE 1998

Team Martin Rhys

Roger Guillidge

Liz Price

We talked to Dave Chedley, a caver, about his flight over the Kelifely and Ankara in the 1980’s and viewed the slides he took. We translated French caver Jean-Christopher Peyre 1982 expedition report. We read The Underground Atlas: A Gazetteer Of The World's Cave Regions: by John Middleton and Tony Waltham. The various contradictions we found in our research only enhanced the mystery of Kelifely. Liz decided to join Martin and I less than two weeks before our departure of the 20th September 1998. Our two week recce to such a remote place looked difficult, and it was!

Because of cost direct flights to Madagascar by Air France we flew directly to Johannesburg, South Africa and then an internal flight to Madagascar to hopefully save money. Unfortunately there were no savings but an important contact was gained in Johannesburg who told us of a friend Nina who lived in Antananarivo (Tana – the abbreviation used by the locals) the capital Madagascar. Nina greeted us on our arrival and arranged a 4 WD truck and driver as this was the only possible way to get to Kelifely within our time limit. The next morning we left Tana and headed north for Maevatarana 325 km away. The trip took 5 hours on good roads

The ‘road’ from Maevatarana to Kandreho is only open between May and September. The 140 km took us 6.5 hours of off-road torture. Even at this, the driest time of year, the water level of some of the rivers were testingly high. After a precarious ferry trip and mile after mile of red sand dust and mud-hut villages we arrived in Kandreho.

The chief of Kandreho made us very welcome, we became his special guests. The village was very prosperous with brick buildings, schools, shops, street lights and a well structured society. He found us a guide from a neighbouring village across the Mahavy River who knew of a cave on Kelifely. We hoped to cover the remaining 21 km to Kelifely by vehicle but after 2 km the Mahavay River shattered that dream, as it was still in flood.

The next day we try to cross in our vehicle but it was simply too deep. Even with light rucksacks, packed for the overnight stop in the village 4 km away, it took 15 minutes to wade across the wide Mahavy River then we walked in soft deep sand for 75 minutes and 40ºC+ until we reach the dilapidated mud huts of the village. Other than missionaries we are the first to visit this village, again the chief makes us welcome. The Chief gave us some rice and two porters to help us on our journey. Due to our time restriction we had to set off straight away and camp near the cave that our porter knew the location of. We carried full water bottles and a filter to enable us refill them with clean (?) water. We were assured that water was available on the route up the mountain and we set off at noon. Though we carried nothing, the sun and sand started to take its toll and within a couple of hours Liz became dehydrated. We had to ration our water, as the only possible source of water turned out to be a dried up riverbed. Each of the sandstone ridges appeared steeper than the last – we were knackered and very thirsty but the porters were not worried and did not ask for water. We were struggling in our boots and shorts (temperature still at +40°C) but the porters, who were carrying everything, seemed as if they were out for a barefooted stroll. As the other raced ahead I enjoyed the red beauty of the canyon we had climbed, or was I just resting! The other had not raced ahead, my eyes were definitely deceiving me; I had double vision and felt very light headed. Someone had also tied heavy lead weights to each of my feet. As the daylight gradually faded so did my resolve. I knew I could not make the last hill to the summit, I was seriously dehydrated. Martin seemed in good shape, but I think Liz was feeling the strain.

Just over half way up the last climb to the summit of the Kelifely plateau we made camp near a small resurgence, just a dribble but enough to refill our water bottles. We threw our mosquito nets over a hanging tree, whilst our porters cooked our evening meal – rice. I climbed on top of my sleeping bag, burning up; and being a gentleman gave most of my clothes to Liz, who was very cold. We are given a mug of rice each to eat and Martin filtered some water. I had no strength, and was hallucinating – the insects I was so concerned with I now did not care about. I do not sleep but drink water all night. We rose at first light – 4:30am, had breakfast of rice (yet again) and climbed for ¾ of an hour and finally made the summit. The wind was strong and cool and with the view wonderfully breath-taking at last we are on the plateau. Our guide told us the cave is over another valley a good 3 hours walk away (3 hours for them – 10 for us). We had run out of time and had to turn back especially as I was feeling much worse. We took GPS readings, photos and decided that a light aircraft could land on this flat summit, which is the highest part of the plateau. We all were very quiet on the descent; it took all my resolve to make it down without help.

We passed through the village of our porters; stopping to eat what at the time seemed wonderful boiled chicken at the weekly market. One interesting point is that the lady that sold us the chicken had a full set of solid gold teeth, quite an extravagance in these poor settings I thought. We complete our return journey by wading across the Mahavy River to meet our waiting driver who was visibly relieved to see us we paid our guides £10 each for two days work – they were delighted and waded back across the river to return to their village. We then drove back to Kandreo. The Chief had left the village and the provision store was closed. Our driver persuades the store to open as our need of beer was serious. The store owner’s wife serves us reluctantly as she kicks her husband, who is asleep on the floor.

As I was still feeling most unwell we decided to stay overnight in Kandreo and the owners left their rooms for us to uses as a make-shift ‘hotel’. Then we sat down for our first meal of more chicken. The bowl was placed on the table in front of me. I was about to take my first spoonful when I ‘black out’ and collapsed head first into the bowl. The others were apparently more concerned with the wasted chicken (and where my head had been) rather than me. I awoke feeling very hot, 5 minutes later, on a bed where I remained for the rest of the night continually drinking water.

The next day we said our goodbye to Kandreo and to make our long journey home.

Our conclusion for the recce was:

·

It is not possible to take an expedition team by our route to Kelifely

·

All provisions and porters would have to be taken to the area.

·

We would have to camp at river level due to the shortage of water.

·

Flying in is the best route.

·

We must take a doctor on the expedition.

·

It is far too hot at the driest time of year – Spring would be better.

·

The village of Kandreo could be a base to launch the expedition.

Back home we started our arrangements of the expedition of June 1999. Madagascar Air agreed they could land a Cessna Caravan Aircraft on the plateau of Kelifely at a cost we can afford and additionally agreed to fly in provisions when necessary. Nina agreed to liase and buy provisions, arrange a cook etc. After many e-mails Madagascar Air got cold feet after a pilot flew over the area as he was very hesitant about landing in such a difficult area. We tried to persuade them but they then stated that they are not allowed to land there. We received an e-mail – a father and son had been killed by the Dahalos (nomadic violent tribesmen – looters, killers, thieves, bandits and savages) whilst collecting crocodile eggs, north of the Kelifely plateau. We considered a different route in and told the team of the latest news.

The new plan would be to drive to Kandreo with all supplies and pirogues and paddle downstream to our area. Our return journey would have be to continue downstream and rendezvous with our vehicle at Sitampiki. A logistic nightmare relying totally on the levels of the rivers. We had to gamble that at Springtime we would be able to drive across the many rivers to reach Kandreo and yet rely the levels of the Mahavy River would be deep enough to take our pirogues. We arranged everything. A pirogue for each person with a paddler who would be armed. Via Nina we arranged time and where drop-off and pick-up points would be. The team had trained, holiday time was arranged, flights were booked for 20th June.

A few weeks before our departure we received this e-mail!!!!!!!

7th May 1999

From – Owen

Dear Liz

Well Jorg is back from Kandreho and the news is not good. Mr Nina’s jeep did not make it all the way and turned back leaving Jorg no choice but to continue on foot to Kandreho. This situation there was very insecure with some killings having occurred just recently. There is also a shortage of food. Jorg left Kandreho on foot with an Army patrol. It took him four days to reach Ambatomianty. Back in Tana Mr Nina (who was sure Jorg was dead and happily refunded him his money). Said he will not return this year to Kandreho due to the difficult security situation. Also the cholera is getting worse in the region. This morning’s paper here spoke of 40 dead in Marovaoy alone. Jorg’s conclusion was that we could try next year in May or June, but only with full government authorisation and an armed escort. He urged me to convince you to go elsewhere in Madagascar this year and join us next year.

Thus we were all committed to go but we had to be sensible and had to change location of course we were disappointed after all this planning and the recce. We accepted a change this late would mean our expedition was more like a recce to another area. After talking to the MCG who had visited the Trishbina area earlier we chose Tkishbina Gorge.

MADAGASCAR EXPEDITION 1999

TEAM TONY BOYCOTT
RICHARD NICHOLSON
MARTIN RHYS
LIZ PRICE
HELMUT STEINER
ROGER GULLIDGE

Day one – Sunday 20th June 1999

Tony/Richard/Roger/Martin (Helmut and Liz will be joining us in Tana) – our allowance of 120Kg was used within ½Kg, more by luck than judgement. My 30Kg monster case caused problems for luggage handlers loading the plane. Arrived in Paris, Charles De Gaulle to be confused where our terminal was for Madagascar Air. Took off an hour late from Charles de Gaulle due to connecting passengers still being in the bar. Flight bumpy at times, food good.

Day two – Monday 21st June 1999

All had a few hours sleep on board. Arrived in Antananarivo at 10 am. Richard had problems finding his passport and was often asked to remove his hat to check out his haircut. Liz met us with Fannou, our driver and interpreter. Paid for our visa and left the airport without any problems. Drove through the mayhem of a third world country city and arrived at the Lekarthala guest house. After a rest we met Mr Nina and discussed the next day’s task and our proposals for when we arrive in Miandrivazo. Problems trying to explain carbide so e-mail Tony’s friend Graham, (in England) for address of company in Tana (three streets away). Eat in Buffet-de-Jardin enjoying fillet steak at £1.30 and the look of the tarts (human!) The 12°C evening temperature forced us to wear coats and Liz several. Walked back to hotel and turned in at 10.30 pm.

Day three – Tuesday 22nd June 1999

Up at 8 am and on the road at 9 am towards the city’s university. Could not gain access to the map room though had an interesting tour of the campus. Found FTM Map Shop which was excellent, purchased five maps scale 1/100,000 of our chosen location. Avoided open sewers and shops named ‘Asian Parts’ and ‘Bat Fat’ whilst shopping for provisions for the Southwest.

Liz and Tony narrowly escaped a determined mugging outside the Post Office; during the distraction a bus tyre exploded, but nothing was stolen

Met up with Helmut, ate at a local café, went to bank, wrote cards and sent e-mail to UK; bought carbide from garage called ‘Fetra Pieces’ at £1.50Kg and alcohol for Helmut to preserve insects. Tony said we could use it as an anaesthetic for an emergency operation!

The six of us went to de-Jardin again for steak and chips and beer – cost per head £2.80. A conversation about camels revealed that Tony thought camels had nice eyelashes but their mouths and feet were horrible. Richard replied “a bit like women”. On leaving de-Jardin at 9.15 pm Martin suggested the strange smell of fish was also not due to camels? Early night ready for tomorrow’s trip South West.

Day four – Wednesday 23rd June 1999

Journey To Antcirabe

Liz woke 2 hours earlier than everyone else when a rat ate her cheese. We all left at 7.10 am cleared a few police check points and a swarm of locust were the high lights until we were stopped for an enforced (by the Military) contact chemotherapy point (cholera) vaccination. This was fine but 15 minutes back on the road we all felt ill – sick and drowsy. It was then that Tony said this was a side effect – his defence for not telling us was ‘he didn’t want to encourage the side effects’. A couple of hours later we were all fine. This area we were travelling through was fertile valleys growing crops of rice, potatoes, cabbages and carrots. The surrounding hills were volcanic with sandstone hills and granite outcrops. Paddy fields extended up high into the hills. This topography extended for 5 hours until our lunch stop at Antcirabe. This spa town is very wealthy. Its flat location lends itself for the many pousse-pousse (rickshaws) that operate. Its wealth derives from its local produce: precious stones and minerals and its thermal spa. An interesting menu at the restaurant La Reine Rasalimo has rousettus (fruit bat) on the menu given 2 hours notice. An hour later a wee-wee stop, the topography is boring, just sandstone hills and granite. Martin remarked ‘It’s probably the same the other way’ we all agreed the return journey would be the same! We arrived at the Chez La Reine Rasalimo Hotel in Miandrivazo 10 hours after leaving Tana. We met Mr Nina and our guide for the area; much to organise tomorrow at breakfast. Hotel much better than we thought, food OK. 8pm soon in bed up tomorrow 7.30am breakfast.

Another Martin Classic - Is your daughter younger than you!

Day five – Thursday 24th June 1999

Journey To Masinkampy

The village of Miandrivazo is about the same size as Kandreo but has two hotels. GPS reading South - 19°31-47.7 minutes, 45°27-68.1 East. Evenings are cool and days are hot and dry. The Mahajilo River surrounds the village. Midday temperature 34°C. After breakfast we all discuss with Mr Nina and Jon, our cook and guide, the maps of the area. We pay £12.50 per day for Jon and his friend to cook and guide, they will be with us for the rest of the expedition. We decide also to go on a recce for 3 days down the Tsikibihina Gorge. We go shopping for perishables in the village market and end up with 3 live hens our Thursday/Friday/Saturday dinner. We are told about a resurgence cave, probably the same one MCG told us. We load minibus once more and head towards Masinkampy GPS E45-24 21. S19-40-55. This main road is bad and ‘road’ off to Masinkampy is just a rough sand track. Although the journey is only 26 kilometres it takes over 2 hours. We arrive at the river at Masinkampy to be met by Nbrina, the man who owns the boats. We discuss plans and cost. We hire a large river boat (after much haggling) for £22 per day for 6 –10 days (this included a crew of three and all diesel costs) as we gained more information the area of Tsikibihina seemed more interesting. Nbrina spoke of a cave south of Shaambano, located on the first bend down stream on Tsikibihina Gorge. Whilst discussing the details for the next 10 days, two lemurs made an appearance. Final plans for more provisions in 3 days’ time were put in place. Jon made a late lunch at 3 pm. We put up our tents on flat sand on the opposite side of the river. Tony’s tent has only 1 pole so will not stay up with his pegs in the soft sand. A mixture of bamboo and other tents help Tony’s tent to remain upright, looking much like a spider’s web. We return to the other side of the river for dinner. We filter water through the one remaining filter as Martin’s water filter has been pinched. Good chicken stew. Lights out at 9.45 pm. Martin’s hamster act continues for 15 minutes – please feel free to ask Martin for an explanation.

Day six – Friday 25th June 1999

Up at 6.30 am and breakfast at 8am Our guide, Jon talked to a villager who knows of several caves. We agree rates of £5 for 3 days but only if we are happy with results! We cast off at 10am and head down stream. The river consists of sandbanks with numerous lakes and swamps. After ½ an hour we join Trishbina river and head for the gorge. Liz made a comment at breakfast that the dog under the table had nice feet? (Is she getting as daft as Martin?) Enter the gorge at 12.30. Hills are a mixture of rock, some mudstone, sandstone and limestone. One slot entrance spotted by Tony midway up the rockface (S19 45 10.6s E45 11n 4.5s) and about ½ hour boating time before the gorge entrance. Gorge hills are well forested and some banks are planted with rice. We stop for lunch at where our plans suddenly change. The crew inform us that diesel is now a problem so we will not be able to make the resurgence tonight. We see many types of unusual birds and crocodiles. The river varies in width from 100m but is very shallow and our boat often touches the bottom. We stop at the Cascades (S19 45m29s E45 15m46s) and anchor. The waterfalls are active with several blue lakes – natural swimming pools. We look for caves and continue upstream. Tony swims the last lake and climbs up the waterfall. He said the stream continues we decide to revisit. We had to camp opposite due to the crocodiles, which are active at night. Richard has a cut toe and is bitten. Martin has a cold! Due to the dry season we think that the active waterfalls may be caused by a resurgence source. We eat our second chicken dinner. Bed at 9.30 pm on a grade 2 sandbank.

Day seven – Saturday 26th June 1999

Up at first light 6 am. Left camp at 6.30 am across the river up to the cascades. Martin still unwell and joins Richard who is sick stay at camp both consoling each other. We by-pass the last waterfall of yesterday, to the left through the forest and rejoin the stream. We are right, the stream resurges on the left side upstream but entry is too tight. We split in two groups, Liz and Tony will follow on up the dry stream, and Helmut and I look for caves either side of the stream. On the left there are no openings but high on the tree-lined banks is Tsingy (a form of limestone). On the right hand bank there are no openings either. The banks are vertical rock, above steep forested slope, 10 to 30m, then another vertical cliff about 3m high, on top again 10 to 30m forest level, then grass savannah up to the top of the hill. No dolines or depressions. Down from the top of the hill comes a ravine, which might end in a depression, but this was not checked due to lack of time. Liz and Tony carry on up the dry riverbed for 400m, past 2-3 stagnant pools until the bed flattens out and breaks out of the forest the summit is visible to the west. No caves, flood drainage channel sinking in joints in the bed only. GPS reading: (RI) S190 45’45. 5” E045011’05. 0”

We move on towards the resurgence. We are dumped off on a well-cultivated sandbank planted with rice, potatoes, corn, sugar cane also crocodile traps. A so-called 5 minute walk to the resurgence (according to our guides) took 1½ hours. Most annoying when the boat could have taken us there but we were apparently low on fuel (again). We were unprepared for the hot walk in undergrowth without water and in shorts and sandals. The cave was in sandstone and sumped after 10 metres. A slot in the rock was too tight to follow. The water was very warm, therefore we decided it had not been underground for very long. With scratched legs and near encounters with furry Pods (a stinging plant pod found in bushes or trees to quote Tony’s personal experience - about 100 times worse than a stinging nettle) we return to the boat, with freshly picked papaya, hot and tired. Total length of walk 2.5 miles each way, total time of trip 2½ hours, total time underground 5 minutes! We return for a swim at cascades and continue upstream before making camp at a sandbank. Third chicken dinner tastes good. At dinner discussions turn silly (it must be Martin’s influence) we discussed that it would be great to find a vertical crocodile and this discovery could be a money-spinner! Martin and Richard turn in early – still ill? Another boat joins us, fishermen, and we are told of a cave on the way back up river.

Day eight – Sunday 27th June 1999

Lakato Ampasi/Maraha (Cave of the Jealous Beach)

Up at 6am and away by 6.45 am. Stop at sandbank and lay our tents out to dry. A 20 minute walk to cave. Dry entrance 2m high by 0.5 -1m wide. Slot entrance extends on to 50m with many side passages. Many small bats size about 50mm are disturbed. Tony explores on further and finds a round trip back to meet us all. This is the first cave worth surveying, again it is a sandstone cave. The bats fall on us, fly on us, we all make a hasty exit. Bats probably leaf-nosed bats, docile when we first go in, not much guano so might not be a permanent roost. Many cockroaches and signs of flooding on floor – multi-directional. Our guide gives the traditional rum blessing to please the spirit of their ancestors. We continue to explore this cliff area for other entrances without success. Tony and Helmut find the pleasure of furry pods irritating. Richard is much better after 12 hours sleep. Martin is a little better. We are even more concerned about our camping sites when wild boar tracks are spotted in the sand heading towards the tents. The crocodiles we have seen on the banks have, up to now, been enough to worry about. We move on upstream towards Nbrina’s house (our starting point) for new supplies. At around 4pm our boat’s engine fails so we drift back down the gorge in the current at 1½ knots. Our crew give up with the engine and try to force the boat to land. In most areas of the river a person can stand on the bottom, not where we are drifting! After using anchor, drifting debris and a swimmer we land on a sandbank. We are told we have to wait for another boat and go to a village nearby to get food. Richard stays at the boat, the rest of us head for the village. The soft sand underfoot reminds me of Kelifely so at a stream I turn back to join Richard. There is little food in the village but ‘Sunday Lunch’ was bought for £2.50. They returned from the village by pirogue. It took 2½ hours to buy a chicken! As we set up camp for the evening a local tells of cave opposite high in the Ankilinkahalo Mountains, about 3 hours walk. We are much more interested when, unprompted, he says it has a cold draft at the entrance. We eat and turn in 10 pm. A boat does join us heading upstream but it is full of people then another boat was spotted also broken down and the passengers had been removed. Our crew and the other stricken vessel’s crew get together to try and make one good boat.

Day nine – Monday 28th June 1999

We cannot go to the cave until we have provisions. Breakfast of rice cakes arrives via villagers we thanked them profusely but ate the cakes with care as on previous occasions the cakes unintentionally contained small stones. At 9.45am we have one boat repaired which towed the other boat thus making slow progress against the current. I am concerned that we have lost a day. We look at all choices but there are few so we decide we must continue exploring this area. Martin is much better. At Nbrina’s our provisions are waiting but we have to also wait for our boat to be repaired. We see lemurs in the trees. I shower much to the amusement of rest of the team. And later at lunch state “now I have had a beer do you all feel better?” We have dinner on the boat. We are determined to go back downstream tonight. It is late, the engine is still not repaired, we are not happy as Nabrina tells us we cannot leave until tomorrow morning.. We camp on the Grade 4 sandbank and leave early the next morning

Roger’s explanation of Sandbank Grading –

GradeDescription1Flat hard sand that can be softened. Easy toilet digging. Privacy bank.
No crocodile tracks. No wild boar tracks. No mosquitoes or flies.2Flat hard sand that can be softened. Easy toilet Dig. No crocodile tracks.3Flat hard sand that can be softened. Easy toilet dig. No mosquitoes or flies.4Soft flat sand. Easy toilet digging.5Uneven soft sand. No toilet digging – locals rice plantation.
Day ten – Tuesday 29th June 1999

Up at 6 am and away by 7 am back down the river. We cannot land directly opposite the cliff with the draughting cave so a pirogue takes us to the shore. We leave at 10.15 am and walk through the forest where we see a chameleon and snake as well as other insects. Martin and our guide were stung by a hornet much to our amusement as they leapt forward rubbing various parts of their anatomy. Our guide appeared not to know where he was going. We stopped for a snack. The climb was through sandstone and granite boulders and not encouraging at all. It was not a steep descent although the forest was sometimes quite dense. We are told not to point in the area of the cave so as not to offend the spirits. We reach the cave area and start searching and searching. We find a dry waterfall but nothing else. Our guide admits he has been here only once and is now not sure. Tony has an attack of the runs. We give up looking for the cave after a couple of hours. The rock in this area is a mixture of limestone/sandstone cliff (S19042’16.5” E045 16’40.2”) and boulder collapse. Helmut walked to the top of the waterfall and up onto the top of the hill but finds nothing. We return down the dry stream leading from the waterfall. Our 5 hour trip revealed that we have to be careful of what the locals say as they probably only agree with us to humour us. We have lunch, drop off our unpaid guide and pick up an elder and his woman. We guess to give a lift. We recognised the elder who was seen by us to be paralytic drunk a couple of days ago in a village. We get ready for dinner and armed with a beer whilst on the boat heads downstream. It is dark when the boat stops at a high bank of sand and the elder gets off. Jon tells us to get ready to look for a cave the elder knows. In true Mendip fashion we drop everything, except the beer and follow. After 40 minutes we find a depression with thick undergrowth – we must be mad – following a known drunk who had no light into the bush with his wife in tow. He was drinking rum and taking snuff as he guided us, even some wild boar ran off in front with Fright! Of course, we found nothing, we knew there was no limestone rock in the area from before. The sandstone depression revealed a rock shelter (S19042 45.1” E045018’06.6”) and a sporting climb out which we all enjoyed. Helmut spotted a mouse lemur, Liz saw the wild boar, we all realised how stupid we were when we got back to drinking our beer on the boat, but hell, it was a laugh. We camp on a Grade 3 sandbank after eating.

Day eleven – Wednesday 30th June 1999

We move off and stop whilst Jon goes to the village of Fomela to find a guide for the Sahambano area. We head across the river and down to the river inlet of Marosalazo. We stop at a sandbank when the river becomes too shallow for our boat. A short pirogue lift to a bank where we all walk up the semi-dry sandy riverbed, concerned at the croc’s track we now recognise. The riverbed abruptly changes into pebbles; the cliffs are high on both sides of the river. Several crocs were spotted in the pools as we climb toward a spectacular waterfall and deep blue pool with large crocs swimming in the shadows. Thankfully our cave is well above the water level but is a small opening with a rat inside (S1946m 25.7s E4515m 07.3s). Again mostly sandstone. This beautiful area must be really something in the monsoon floods. I climb up to the left of the waterfall and Martin and I follow the river on up. We see lots of wild life and beautiful waterfalls we turn back as the river horseshoes at the Ambomea Hills and check the sandstone caves. We return from the rather unimpressive croc cave after a 4 hrs trip. We buy fish for dinner and head towards the cascades. We camp on the Grade 2 sand bank rather fed up.

Day twelve – Thursday 1st July 1999

Awake to see a preying mantis in Liz’s shoe. We decide to look ourselves in the cascade area at the Tsingy I spotted earlier. Helmut explores the valley upstream from the cascades. We head towards the Tsingy, and then split up. Tony and Martin find several large gullies, largest is descended by Martin – 6m climb down to choked bottom rift 5m long, some formations we named it Flute Pot S19045’36.2” E045010’59.1” Martin hits his head again on the way out.
I explore a definite sink, which is occupied, by a nest of hornets, luckily I did not get stung. (S19045’36.2” E045010’59.1”) We all head out in different directions from the forest. I climb to top of hill so I can look inland. Everywhere is sandstone hills with river valley. I am very pissed off. It appears the geologist got it wrong. We are very unlikely to find caves in this area. On the way back down I find another area of Tsingy again close to the main river. I fall on the sharp Tsingy and knock myself out and after a few seconds I come around, bruised and cut. It does seem there is a small bank of limestone near the river about 50m from river level. We return and have lunch.

In Helmut’s Area.

Helmut explored the left-hand side of the landing area.. What looked like a path tapered out after a few metres, he scrambled up through awful thorn bushes, the direction was more or less parallel to the river. His pathway was more dictated by the bush eventually coming out on broken Tsingy area. Finally he found a continuous limestone ledge, dissected by cracks and small valleys.

Tony finds a limestone opening bearing 26º and 0.5m wide. The ceiling is level, a bit extended along a bedding plane the impassable crack is about 1.5m deeper, total height 2m. At the bottom level, in a straight line 4 pots, iron ore, the sides are round, with round bottoms, brown with three supports legs and two handles. The total length of the crack is 5m, the end is rounded from running water. About 10m to the right of that is another very tight hole, maybe 10-15m long, 0.5m x 0.5m, dry, lot of snails on the ground. Tony followed the ledge along the riverside, more cracks there, at least one he would call a cave, a few metres long.

Our boatmen tell us the pots probably belong to the notorious Dahrhalos who visit the area in the Summer. We were all very pleased Tony had decided not to bring one of the pots on the boat as a souvenir!

After lunch we move onto another village to pick up another guide for tomorrow. We return to the cascades and wash and have dinner on the boat at our sandbank opposite the cascades.

Day 13 - Friday 2nd July 1999

Breakfast at 7.30 off at 8.00am. Virtually straight across the river. To say the least we are all pessimistic. After walking up the steep forested bank on the left side of the dry waterfall for 15mins we followed the river at 10m above water level and found limestone and a tufa coated waterfall. We follow this to an obvious cliff with a slit, which is a resurgence during the monsoon. At last a cave!! The cave entrance is 100m above the river. The cliff above of limestone is another 10-20m higher before the Tsingy tree lined top. We therefore confirm a limestone bed of 40-50m. /Tony and Martin went on in the cave to see if the cave is worth surveying. They return 10 minutes later to say they had been 300 metres and it still goes on!! We celebrate and pay our guide 60,000.00 mecagassy (about £6.00). he is very pleased. Liz and Helmut stay at cave. We go back to boat for other lights, filming stuff and survey kit. We return with all equipment whilst Liz and Helmut eat lunch. Tony gets stung by hornet again on way up. Also has upset stomach again. We survey for two hours with a total of 460m of impressive streamway – see report and cave description. The cave still goes on with several side passages yet to be explored. On the return down towards the river Tony gets stung by a hornet 3 times in the same spot in the forest. We wait for the boat and light a fire on the bank. We can see our tents but no one wanted to swim across! John was able to find some food from the village and but two chickens our guide returns. I worry because we are low on provisions we eat Friday (Friday is a chicken). Helmut prepared the specimen insects he has collected from the cave. We turn in at 9pm.

Day 14 – Saturday 3rd July 1999

Up at 7.30 and off, after a refreshing breakfast of biscuits, dry bread and egg! Caving at 9.45. Humidity of cave 88 temp 24. We push all possible inlets eventually the sandstone roof closed the cave in all directions. See survey. Total cave length 720m approx. Out of cave at 11.30 for lunch which John Louis the Boatman brought up to us. We conclude this cave with a filming visit with the boat crew. Outside Temp 34 humidity 31. We are all filthy with guano and sweat. We go the cascades for a great bath, swim and wash the clothes. We look at another resurgence at river level before returning to our tents for dinner. We eat ‘Saturday’ and fruit and vegetables that Jon had bought at the village we turned in at 9.00pm.

At dinner Liz said “oh look he’s going to give a banana a lemur. We collect a Parogue floating down the river.

The cave Survey Team – Richard
Martin
Tony

LASKATO ZAFERA

Cave entrance is an obvious resurgence from a cliff GPS S1945 075 E45 11436. From the walk in entrance a right hand bend leads to a stoop with a sandy bottom. This continues left and right until the passage tightens at inlet on left with central stal. The roomy passage way continues off on the right. The easy walking passage has a solid floor as inlet too tight to follow joins on left and right. A short climb to a bridge over an inlet too tight to follow joining on the right, leads on to more roomy passage. A sharp right hand bend, with stal boss, and immediate left leads to a 2 metre climb up to a central shark like formation. Cave floor now has puddles full of shrimps as another inlet joins on the left. This stal filled crawl becomes a flat out crawl for 30 m before closing down. Roomy passage continues with stal on right. At a right hand bend a knee deep pool of guano is crossed to the left stal bank. The roomy walking passage continues with banks of mud on the left and right. Passage becomes very impressive with large mud bank on right. A inlet also joins from the right. Continues as a stoop after right hand bend continuing virtually straight before choking in guano. The roof of the cave is now sandstone and starts to close down with two inlets on left. The second inlet a muddy 10 m crawl this leads to 40m of walkable passage to a guano choke. The main passage continues at a stoop to a column with an inlet on the left. A small stream inlet trickles on the clean limestone floor and is a flat out crawl until too tight. The main passage continues at a flat out crawl on a shingle floor. It eventually becomes too tight (debris and woodlice are found)

Day 15 – Sunday 4th July 1999

Up and breakfast at 7.30. We decide to visit the tomb cave Helmut and Tony had discovered earlier in the Tsingy to the right of the cascades. Liz decided not to join the climb. I have Martin’s cold and Tony has his every other day shits. Both Helmut and I get stung by a hornet whilst climbing up to the cave.

There are no bones under the metal pots in the small cave amongst the impressive Tsingy. The 3 pots are all upside down in a row. We photograph one and put it back as we found it. We look in vain to find a cave amongst the Tsingy. After a couple of hours we return to the boat. We take down our tents, which have been home for a few days and head up stream towards the cave Lakato Ampasi Maraha to survey. A bewildered villager claims the Parogue we found yesterday. The boatman gives the boat back after heated discussions (must be like finding a mobile phone in the “Hunters”). We land at 1.25pm have lunch and off to survey.






We quickly discover more caves than we expected and a snake. Helmut saw and photographed the snake. The vibrant green pattern and size suggest it was a boa. The sandstone cave was a labyrinth of enlarged dissected blocks with a mud floor. The cave obviously floods when the river is high. All the mud slopes in the cave had debris on them. Debris is also seen 12ft high in the straight entrance slot. The cave changes on entry into a wide marl chamber with a phreatic roof and mud floor. The cave still has bats at this point. Roots and woodlice are also spotted. Having used up our original time we re-group outside the cave. We decided to split into two survey teams and go back in the cave for a further 2 hours. At 6.30pm we pitch our tents on a grade 5 sandbank, wash and eat crabs that Jon had dug up. The cave has many unexplored junctions but we decide to move on in the morning to allow enough time for one more attempt to find the drafting cave of Sambon, survey team (first part). Roger, Tony, Martin (second teams) /Tony, Roger Helmut/ Liz, Martin, Helmut.

Day 16 – Monday 5th July 1999

Up at 7.00 breakfast of rice (still short on provisions) away at 8 up river towards Sambon. 3 hours later we arrive at the sand bank near Komela. We go into the village for provisions and our guide. The baby Tony gave some medicine to on the way down river had recovered. He had two more patients to see. One 4year old girl had an abscess on her shoulder and a man had an infection in his ankle. After treatment we were given a chicken (Monday 2) and bought rice and sugar and soap. Our guide is reluctant to take us to the windy cave but will take us to another cave tomorrow morning. This will be our last visit to our area. We go across the river and re-visit the sand bank down the inlet of Marosalozo. We swim, wash and relax after lunch of (Monday 2). Buy fish at 12.000 (£1.20) (enough for 6 people). At 4.30 we go back to main river and pitch tents on a grade 4 sand bank. Eat our fish and turn in at 9.00. We see another boat passing we tell Helmut that it is full of Germans. Helmut responded I have enough Germans home I don’t want any out here.

Day 17 - Tuesday 6th July 1999

Up early at 6.00 and away at 7.30 up another dry riverbank on the left bank upstream on the Marosalazo River. We see white lemurs in the trees before starting to climb the boulders of the dry riverbed. After an hour and ¼ we reach a waterfall still slightly active – disappointing. The cave is just an overhang. A guide assures us there was a cave now covered with boulders. But there never was a cave here. We climb the forested left side of the waterfall and continue to follow upstream until we find the resurgence in a 300mm wide bed of limestone. The dry riverbed continues winding its way up the grass covered hills. We follow for a while until we reach a stagnant pool where I suppose the expedition ends. Helmut finds a snake, same as the other one, in a small rock fall which has made a cave. The roof of the cave was full of bats. On the way down we find more of the strange formation in the riverbed – we take some to identify. We meet Liz who has stayed at the boat and head off up stream on the main river towards Nbrina’s. We ask to see the croc lake John had told us about. Our boatmen refuse – they just want to go home tonight. 6 hours later we arrive at Nbrina’s. Tents up for the last time on the grade 4 sandbank over to Nbrina with Jean Louis for dinner. We have duck and lots of beer. Back to the tents at 10pm. Lights out.

Day 18 – Wednesday 7th July 1999

Tents down and breakfast at 9.00 then a mass sort out of surplus clothes. Shoes given to good homes. Martin and me sell our showers to Nbrina. We finally pack our cases and rucksacks. The major visits us. I have to show the film of the cave a few times to various interested parties. I pay Nbrina there are no problems. I pay Jon and Jean Louis and tip our boatmen £5.00 each they are delighted. They are off up the river again. We arrange to meet John tonight for a celebration once we are in Miandrivazo. Our lift is late. We have lunch. The lemurs come to see us. A funeral procession goes across the river. One boat is so laden with people it gets stuck on sand. The oarsman gets out and has to push it part way across the river. The person died 3 days ago, after mourning the death for 3 days there are celebrations as the person starts their spiritual journey – I filmed the celebration. Our mini-bus arrives. We load up and leave at 2.pm. Arrive at 4.30 at the Ichez-la-Reine-Rasalimo in Miandrivazo. We all share the family room. Tony and Martin one double, Richard and I one double, the rest single. We have a few beers waiting for the mini-bus to take us to Jon’s choice of restaurant. At 8.15 we go to the Nomene Salon de T.he restaurant. We have zebu and chips, yogurt and lots of beer. It is a good night. We get back to our hotel at 11pm. Many attempts are made at flushing away the frog, which is in our WC. No one particularly wants to help it out.

Day 19 – Thursday 8th July 1999

After breakfast Jean Louis arrives – I tip him as with Jon £10.00. final loading for the 8 hour journey (we hope) to Tana. Our driver is Tim and our interpreter Fina. Film a large chameleon. Team photo session and off at 8.15. We soon run over a chicken and hit a couple of others, narrowly miss a snake. The clear skies of Miandrivazo soon change on route to cloud and cold. It rains as we reach the prosperous town of Antcirabe. Same restaurant as before, same wonderful samosas and steak and chips. Had to buy waterproof cover for our bags on the roof rack. Good job we didn’t put the surplus carbide on the roof! We buy a few bits to take home from the shop next to the restaurant and move on. More rain on route but if stops as we arrive in Tana at 5.30. We check in at the same hotel as before. The hotel is full. We arrange for the mini-bus tomorrow at 10am to take us shopping. After showers and hot baths we meet at the foyer to go to our favourite restaurant. Two guests ask for help for directions. The two girls are from Jo-Burg. They follow our route into town and decide to join us for dinner. We eat steak and chips again and loads of beer. The ladies WC is past the gent’s urinals much to the amusement of Lin and Alice. We walk back to our hotel ignoring the usual beggars and cardboard bundles. I have a restless night not used to the noises of civilisation.

Day 20 – Friday 9th July 1999

Woke up at first light after hearing the bugle of the nearby army or police. Leisurely breakfast. Helmut has bad shits. We wait for our mini-bus. Off to bank to exchange some French francs to Madagascan francs. Note only centre banks change travellers cheques and best exchange rate for Mad francs is in sterling. Sell back 15kg carbide for a pitiful 5,000 Mad francs per kg. Go to two tourist markets outside town and buy presents. Perhaps the items that weighed on everyone’s mind was my stone balls. I did explain I would hide them both in my pockets on the way home though the larger ball would be best in a bag! Visit supermarket in the same area and buy chocolate, cakes, ice cream and consume before leaving the cashier. Have lunch in local’s restaurant. A few doors away from Nina’s office. Settle Nina’s account no problems – he is still ill with malaria. He recommended us to a restaurant the La Romance. He plays in a group here when he can. We booked a table. Nina paid for a cab to take us home whatever time we finished and hoped to join us if he felt better. After finishing our shopping Helmut makes final arrangements to head to the east of Madagascar for 3½ weeks after we leave. The 15 min walk was safe early evening. The music was traditional Madagasay modern pop and was surprisingly good. We had entries, main meal and deserts, we also drank them out of wine. Our enjoyable evening ended at 11.30 when our cab arrived to return us to our hotel. Eight French girls had arrived. Four of them in Richard’s and my room – we didn’t get much sleep!

Day 21 – Saturday 10th July 1999

Up at 8 to see Helmut off. He is catching a bush taxi heading east. Fina helps him get on the right one. Pack our bags, walk into town for final shopping, have lunch at the De-Jardin. Back to the Lekarthala for beer, shower, before returning to the De-Jardin at 5 o’clock for an early evening meal with Liz. Said our good bye to Liz and Tina and Fina drive us to the airport. We tip with 50,000 in francs. Have no real problems except for the weight of the hold luggage. My balls can’t be the 5kg we are over our allowance – might have to put them in my pocket in France. We leave Tana 15 minutes late after the captain pressurised the cabin to 30,000 ft in 15 seconds before we taxied out on the runway. Had yet more zebrew to eat on the aircraft before getting a few hours sleep.

Day 22 – Sunday 11th July 1999

Breakfast on board before Paris landing on time. After negotiating a few bollards on the runway no problems checking baggage to Bristol. Leave on time. Arrive in Bristol 1½ hours later to be met by our lift – it’s over for another year.

CONCLUSIONS

Without question the geological map of Madagascar is in-correct. In the Trishbina Gorge area Sandstone is predominant – small pockets of Tsingy and Mall exist. A small bed of Limestone, varying in depth from 300mm to 40 metres is visible through the gorge. The limestone bed does not extend to any great length into the Sandstone Hills. The whole area has surface rivers to take the Monsoon floods. If any other caves are found they will be short and full of bats.

We had a successful expedition considering the late change of location and the remoteness of the Trishbina area. The people are very friendly and honour their agreements. Anyone else contemplating the Trishbina area of Madagascar should take in large quantities of provisions and luck – they will need it. If you see a crocodile with a water purifier – its Martin’s!!!

Madagascar 1999: Fauna List

by Helmut Steiner

Helmut is currently producing an Annotated Fauna List and is awaiting some results – this listing will be published in the next ACG Journal.

Croc Pool Hole (S19°46,428' E045°15,122') (undercut at waterfall, closed by calcite tufa)
Frogs: -- Mantella betsileo (Grandidier, 1872); (Fam. Ranidae, Mantellinae)

Insects:

Crickets: -- Malgasia sp.; (Fam. Malgasiidae)

Ants: -- Monomorium sp. 1; (Fam. Formicidae, Myrmicinae)

Bugs: -- indet. (Fam., Lygaeidae)
-- indet. (Fam. Reduviidae, Emesinae)

Spiders: -- indet. (Fam. Uloboridae)

Isopods: -- indet.

Lakata Zafera (S 19° 45,095' E 045° 11,486')

Bats: -- Miniopterus manavi Thomas, 1906; (Fam. Vespertilionidae)
-- Miniopterus majori Thomas, 1906; (Fam. Vespertilionidae)
-- Hipposideros commersoni (E. Geoffroy, 1813); (Fam. Rhinophilidae)
-- Triaenops furculus Trouessart, 1906; (Fam. Rhinophilidae)

Insects:

Dipters: -- Penicillidia leptothrinax Speiser, 1908; (Fam. Nycteriibidae - Exo-parasite of bats, from M. manavi)
-- Sergentomyia sp.; (Fam. Psychodidae, Phlebotominae)

Cockroaches: -- Periplaneta americana (L.) (Fam. Blattidae)

Crickets: -- Malgasia sp. (Fam. Malgasiidae)

Ants: -- Paratrechina sp. 1. (Fam. Formicidae, Formicinae)
-- Pyramica sp. (Fam. Formicidae, Myrmicinae)

Beetles: -- indet.

Bugs: -- indet. (Fam. Reduviidae, Emesinae)

Moths: -- indet. (Fam. Tineidae)

Collembola: -- Willemia sp. (Fam.?)

Spiders: -- Fictotama (Neotama) sp.; (Fam. Hersiliidae)
-- indet. (Fam. ?Oxyopidae)
-- indet. (Fam. ?Pisauridae)
-- indet. (Fam. Segestriidae)

Mites: -- indet.

Crustacea:

Isopods: -- indet.

Shrimps: -- indet

Millipedes: Dilophops bullatus Loomis, 1934; (Fam. Pyrgodesmidae)

Snails: -- Ampelita milloti Fischer-Piette

Planaria: -- indet

Lakata Ampasimaraha (S 19° 42,271' E 045° 12,210')

Bats: -- Miniopterus manavi Thomas, 1906; (Fam. Vespertilionidae)

Snakes: -- Sanzinia madagascariensis (Dumeril & Bibron, 1844); (Fam. Boidae)

Frogs: -- Mantydactylus sp.; (Fam. Ranidae, Mantellinae)
-- Mantydactylus (c.f. Brygoomantis ) sp.; (Fam. Ranidae, Mantellinae)

Insects:

Diptera: -- Sergentomyia sp.; (Fam. Psychodidae, Phlebotominae)

Crickets: -- Paragryllodes sp.; (Fam. Phalangopsidae)
-- Malgasia sp.; (Fam Malgasiidae)

Ants: -- Paratrechina sp. 1; (Fam. Formicidae, Formicinae)
-- Pheidole sp.; (Fam. Formicidae, Myrmicinae)

Cicada: -- indet.

Bugs: -- indet.; (Fam. Reduviidae, Emesinae)

Spiders: -- indet.; (Fam. Pisauridae)
-- indet.; (Fam. ?Oxyopidae)

Isopods: -- indet.

Snails: Sitala sp.

Last Cave (S19°46,391' E045°15,622') (undercut at waterfall)

Bats: -- Miniopterus manavi Thomas, 1906; (Fam. Vespertilionidae)

Snakes: -- Sanzinia madagascariensis (Dumeril & Bibron, 1844); (Fam. Boidae)

Insects:

Cockroaches: -- Periplaneta americana (L); (Fam. Blattidae)

Ants: -- Paratrechina sp.1; (Fam. Formicidae, Formicinae)

Spiders: -- indet.; (Fam Pisauridae or ?Oxypodidae)

Acknowledgement:

Special thanks for the identification of specimens are due to:

J. Altmann, Forschungsinstitut und Museum Senckenberg, Frankfurt, Germany

L. Deharveng, Université P. Sabatier, Toulouse, France

L. Desutter, Museum National d'Histoire Naturelle, Paris, France

W. Dorow, Forschungsinstitut und Museum Senckenberg, Frankfurt, Germany

F. Glaw, Zoologische Staatssammlung München, Germany

O. Griffith, Mauritius

R. L. Hoffman, Virginia Museum of Natural History, USA

D. Kock, Forschungsinstitut und Museum Senckenberg, Frankfurt, Germany

A. Malsch, University of Frankfurt, Germany

D. Mann, Oxford University Natural History Museum, U.K.

W. Reeves, Clemson University, USA

G.S. Robinson, Natural History Museum, London, U.K.

J. Wunderlich, Straubenhardt, Germany