26 DECEMBER 2000 TO 14 JANUARY 2001
by Alan Gray
To locate, survey and photograph undocumented caves
To collect and identify cave fauna.
Areas to be Investigated
Thailand - Yala, Satun and Trang provinces.
Malaysia - one unsurveyed cave on Pulau Langkawi to be surveyed and pushed.
Photographer A Gray
Martin Rhys (ACG)Caving 30 years. Expeditions to France, Albania, Malaysia and Madagascar.Richard Nicholson (ACG)Caving 6 years. Expeditions to France and Madagascar.Alan Gray (ACG)Caving 33 years mainly on Mendip – one expedition to Ireland.Gwen Sawicki (ACG)Caving 15 years on Mendip.Liz Price (CSS)English caver who lives in Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia. Caving 26 years. Expeditions all over Australasia, Asia, Africa and Europe.Helmut SteinerGerman Caver from Frankfurt. Expeditions to Madagascar, Thailand, Malaysia and the Alps during the past 5 years.Laura RhysMartin’s daughter.
Photographer A Gray
Medical
Non prescription tablets for general infections, plasters, bandages, Aspirins, sharps, syringes, sutures and iodine spray.
2 sets of personal SRT equipment
Personal carbide and electric back-up lighting
Caving boots
1 caving ladder – 10m
2 static ropes - 22m
Slings, tape + rope + wire tethers
Survey tape, compass and clinometer.
3 first aid kits
Rucksacks, tackle bags.
Eleven seater air conditioned mini bus hired locally, taxis, pick-up truck, and boats.
Photographer A Gra
8mm Video Camera (this broke down on the first day and was not used!)
Underwater Housing
Video Lights and Chargers
Personal still cameras
The Malaysian unit of currency is the ringgit (RM) – formerly known as the Malaysian dollar, consisting of 100 sen. Approximately 5.6 ringgit equal £1.
The Thai unit of currency is the Baht (B) there are 100 satang in one baht. Approximately 60 baht equal £1.
Air fares £700 (approx) – this high fare was due to travel during the Christmas season.
Hotel accommodation – between £3 and £6 a night per room. £12 a night in KL
BCRA Travel Insurance - £57
Van Hire – 1,600B per day (£25) – fuel extra
Train from KL to Hat Yai - £8 sleeping berth
Food – Thailand less than £2 a day.
Photographer A Gray
ThaiMalaysianBeachHatPantaiCaveThamGuaIslandKoPulauMountain, HillKhaoGunung, BukitVillageBanKampung
THE EXPEDITION
Adventures in books never start very early in the morning but this one did
at 4am! Well not quite correct as Gwen and Alan took off 24 hours after the
rest of the party – Martin, Richard and Laura. This delay was caused by my
confusion regarding the date of Boxing Day which my feeble mind interpreted
as the 27th of December hence the delay. As we were booked with Virgin Alan
thought he might be able to change the tickets for the earlier day
especially as there were seats available. Virgin quoted the costs as £75 for
my ticket and £29 for Gwen’s. Then the other condition – the only way that a
change would be possible was for both of us to upgrade the tickets to
Business Class at a cost of only £774 each!
Photographer A Gray
Monday 25 December 2000
Photographer Alan Gray
Martin, Richard and Laura arrived in Kuala Lumpur. Martin phoned Liz to announce their arrival minus Martin’s luggage – a repeat of what happened when Martin came out for the recce in February. Good old KLM strikes again. Liz met the trio at the Heritage Hotel above the railway station at 12. We had lunch in S&M shopping centre then went shopping etc and had our first expedition beer. It was hot and sunny. It was the first day of Hari Raya yet quite a few shops were open. Hari Raya is a major Moslem festival to celebrate the end of the fasting month of Ramadhan. Back to the hotel and met up with Helmut, then Liz popped home for an hour.
Photographer A Gray
Photographer A Gray
Photographer A Gray
Wednesday 27 December 2000
“ Hi Alan – Met up with Laura & Richard, KLM have lost my baggage again. See you in Thailand – Martin”
Martin chose to travel from Bristol via Amsterdam to Kuala Lumpur (KL) and they lost his baggage. On his last trip KLM lost his baggage both on the outward and return journeys. Perhaps Martin will not be using KLM again!
Photographer A Gray
Photographer A Gray
A very smooth easy ride north in the air conditioned taxi. The weather was dry but hot at 30°C and humid. We stopped at a service station for a break and the food and drink were very cheap. As we headed further north the scenery became more mountainous since the area around KL Airport is very flat. The vegetation is lush with forest everywhere.
Unfortunately the driver did not seem to understand our destination and he had headed about 50km north of the turn off before Alan realised. Alan then read the destination on the printed ticket that was given to us at the airport – Bukit Kayu Hitam – this was not on our map. Liz informed Alan that Bukit Kayu Hitam is the major border crossing in the very north of Malaysia, about 100km further north from the lesser used crossing which we wanted. After Alan tried to communicate his concerns the driver stopped just past a junction on the highway. Then Alan realised that as well as not speaking English he could not read a map and did not even have one. My map covered the whole of Malaysia, is not very detailed and also has some different names than those displayed on the signs. After a while Alan was able to convey his meaning and after a further 10km north we were able to turn around and head back south. Alan then phoned Martin who said that they had trouble hiring a van and that we should meet in Yala in Thailand rather than at the border crossing.
The highways are very modern with not a scrap of litter then we turned onto the A road for the border, quite a poor road with litter everywhere. There was terrible trouble route finding due both to the lack of detail on my map and the confusion of signs. The border with Thailand was only signposted from a distance of 5km away and the driver had to stop and ask the way three times during the last 30km of the journey. Both Gwen and Alan were quite concerned since we had heard that the border closed at 6pm, but luckily we reached it at 5:30pm. We both felt sorry for the driver who had been most helpful having to drive the 330 miles back to KL.
At the Malaysian border we met a Thai young couple, who were returning home, in a car, and took us to the border with Thailand some 3km distant – it is not like this on the films the borders are always 100m apart. The couple was very friendly and then gave us a 10km lift into Betong (the nearest town) which had all the appearances of a border town quite chaotic and shabby. They dropped us off in the town and arranged for us to take a taxi (!) to Yala where we hoped to meet the rest of the group. The car was a beaten-up Mercedes that was 40 years old. Financial arrangements were made and agreement was reached that we would be driven the 147km for the cost of 160 baht (£3). The driver got in (dressed in trousers and an army combat T-shirt), then another guy got in the front with the driver and then a teenager in full combat gear with army boots on sat beside me. The car set off like a rocket, threading through the myriad of three up mopeds and other cars. Unfortunately in Thailand the vast majority of signs (which are few and far between are in Thai and are not readable) so we were unsure where we were going as the jungle flashed past on either side of the speeding car.
Then we turned off the A-road (410) onto a rutted country lane and the passenger in the front got out in a small village. From there our speed increased and also our concern. Gwen had visions of us having our gear stolen, throats cut and bodies dumped in the jungle. After a while Alan got talking to the driver, who spoke limited English, he thought it most strange that Alan knew nothing about English football since he supported Liverpool. He also said that the teenager who by that time was sitting in the front with the driver had been in the Thai army for two years. Dusk fell and also it started drizzling and the driver developed some interesting driving techniques – going faster, overtaking on blind bends and on the brow of hills, driving with one hand, only switching on the wipers when it was impossible to see out of the windscreen and also switching off the headlights when there was no oncoming traffic. The journey can only be likened to a manic Arcade game but unfortunately this was reality! Still worried we reached Yala covering the 147km in just 1¾ hours. We were knackered, continuous travelling for 35 hours. On thankfully alighting safely from the car we phoned Martin on the Mobile and Alan was concerned for 30 seconds when the phone would not connect. The phone eventually connected and Martin told us which hotel they were staying in. We were standing on the corner looking lost and a guy from a nearby bar gave us a lift the 1km to the hotel in which the group was staying. We were very relieved to meet up with the rest of the group. Dumped our bags off at the Hotel Sri Yala, rooms Bt 180 single and 240 double/twin, then immediately off for a beer and fried-rice.
Whilst in the hotel I read the paragraph from the lonely Planet Guide, on the Betong area – “Until 1990 the Communist Party of Malaysia (CPM) has its hidden headquarters in the Betong District at a camp called Wan Chai, home to 180 guerrillas of the 12th Regiment. Most were ethnic Chinese and more than half were women. All uniforms were made at the camp, they even operated their own radio station that broadcast the Voice of Malayan Democracy. In December 1989 the CPM finally laid down arms, many guerrillas were given minor land grants in the area by the Thai government in return for their capitulation. The Pattani United Liberation Organisation, Thai-Muslim separatists who want Yala and other Muslim provinces to secede from Thailand are still rumoured to have minor forces in this area. It was a good job that this was not read before the manic taxi journey!
Bed at 11pm. Long long two days.
It is probably worth, at this point in the report, including a paragraph by Helmut on the translation of Thai names - A problem with transcribing Thai names (apart from that they have a lot more letters than English) is that they don't have the western concept of words, they actually put all syllables of one sentence together, so, the Thai version of our caves would actually be something like "Thamphuphaphet" There are two ways of dealing with it, either you take every syllable as a word ("Tham Phu Pha Phet"), or you break it somewhat arbitrarily into words ("Tham Phuphaphet"). In the end it is a matter of taste. I asked Helmut to provide English translations for the Thai cave names; I have put these in italics on the first reference to the cave along with Helmut’s rationale.
Also at this point in the report it is worth mentioning that our reference book for caving in Thailand was to be The Caves of Thailand by John R Dunkley but unfortunately this happened to be in Martin’s lost rucksack which was not returned to him until we had left Thailand. On referring to this book after the expedition the only caves listed that we explored were as follows
AreaCave #SatunTham Khao TingTrangTham Morakhot (Emerald Cave)YalaTham Ku Ha PimakTham Krachaeng (Tham Lot)
# Spellings as in John Dunkley’s book.
Friday 29 December 2000
Alan tried the video camera out at the hotel this morning – it would not load the tape – funny how these things happen, the machine was working perfectly at home. He was more annoyed concerning the extra weight that had been carried, and will have to carry for the entire expedition, for the video – lights, chargers, batteries, underwater case rather than it not working.
Got up an hour before everybody else this morning – they forgot to tell us that Thailand is an hour behind Malaysian time. Breakfast of chicken fried rice and soup. Caving today so off to buy carbide at 23Bt per kilo from a hardware store. The cave we were exploring today was 50km south of Yala and is situated near Ban Than To village.
The following information has been extracted from Liz’s article in International Caver (10) 1994.
“There are two main entrances to this system the Tham Lod which is reached from Ban Than To by going north 5km to Ban Lang National Park which is on the left. A few metres south is a track on the right before a bridge. Follow this for 2km and park by the last house, from which the hill containing the cave can be easily seen. The cave is reached by walking downstream or going through cultivated land. Tham Lod is a sink, and after a 620m long passage leads to the main confluence. When the larger passage is reached this is immediately apparent since the water flowing in from the right is much warmer. However, immediately from the Tham Lod entrance it is apparent that it is very, very flood prone and we looked in awe at large tree trunks perched on boulders some 5m above the floor, not to mention the flood vegetation and debris strewn throughout the cave.
Helmut’s English translation of Tham Lod - Lod: to go through (a tunnel); to go under (an archway) -- I would translate it as "Tunnelcave", well, that explains why there are so many Tham Lods in Thailand.
Helmut’s English translation of Tham Krachaeng - Krachaeng: a shade made like a mat of atap or screwpine leaves to keep rain out or to cover a boat-- I would make something like "rain shelter cave" out of that... Couldn't find anything meaningful for "Krasaeng"
The other entrance, a resurgence, called Tham Krachaeng is reached by following the road north from Ban Than To, through Ban Ka Sod village, then turning right onto a track at the 8/47 stone. Go past the mosque on the left after 1.4km (this is actually the main track), right before a bridge and park by the Krachaeng Arch. The arch is a 100m long natural rock arch, and by walking upstream for a few minutes, the main cave is reached. However, the way on at water level is completely blocked by large gours. To enter the cave involves a swim and then a climb over the gours to regain the river on the upstream side.
Total length of the Tham Lod/Tham Krachaeng system 5516m.”
Tham Lod/Tham Krachaeng System – Yala province, Thailand.
Alan, Gwen, Helmut, Liz, Martin & Richard.
LocationNorthEastTham Krachaeng Arch06° 12.836’101° 12.224’Tham Lod entrance (nearby)06° 12.003’101° 11.418’
There are 3 spellings used for this cave: Tham Krachaeng, Tham Krasang and Tum Krachaeng. However the Tum version is an obvious spelling error, since the Thai word for caves is usually always spelled "Tham".
As we were about to enter the cave, at midday, we saw a monkey scuttling down a palm trunk near the entrance. This is a beautiful cave with very large passages following the down stream river passage for 620m before we met with the other warm river which we then followed upstream for 2.3km in some places we were wading at chest depth, but did not need to swim.
Helmut captured whip scorpions (length when stretched out ½m), cave crickets, assassin bug, stone fly (washed in) and other minor insects. Photographs were taken of frogs that had been washed in. About half way up the warm river passage we came across a vertical mud bank some 3m high which Martin, Richard and Alan tried climbing. There were no handholds and the bank was very slippery. An interesting technique was used to climb the mud bank which was similar to climbing on snow banks. Kicking footholds, but Alan was only able to get 2m high before the foothold crumbled away and he slipped back into the waist deep water beneath. A large chamber was seen over the top of the mud bank and Martin said that it looked like an off shoot of the main passage, but he could not see the floor.
At the cold water stream inlet on the left going upstream we split into two parties and arranged to meet again in one hour’s time. Liz, Martin and Alan surveyed the inlet over some very sharp rocks, had to swim in three places and one of the survey stations was a floating station. We accomplished 12 legs in 50 minutes in narrow passage with a small deep stream running through the whole of its length. The last survey station (12), when time ran out, was at the start of a large chamber and was located on the topmost point of a Stalactite formation that had fallen from the roof and landed point uppermost on the top a 3m high mud bank.
Helmut and Richard went to the boulder choke at the end of the upstream passage and explored this for about half an hour but could not find a way through the complex maze of large but relatively stable boulders. On two occasions in 1993 Liz had attempted to find a way through the choke but was unsuccessful. We all met up back at the inlet with Gwen who had been resting since she was tired due to the travelling, jet lag and different caving techniques used. The main difficulty associated with this cave was the sand and gravel under the surface of the water. Within five minutes of being in the cave your boots and socks would fill up with these materials which would work between the toes and underneath your foot. Quite painful when walking on this debris in your socks and we stopped about five times during the trip to wash out socks and caving boots. Apart from this the techniques of caving in a river cave were new to both Gwen and Alan; we both caved very slowly as you were unable to see what you were placing your foot on when taking each step. Also since we caved in just shorts and a T-shirt you have to be very careful to avoid injury when brushing against rock or vegetation in the cave, as you have no clothing for protection. A very pleasant trip caving in warm water with warm air all around and at no time did we feel cold.
Richard’s comments on Tham Lod – larger passage size than Aggy, but not as large as the Time Machine in Darren. A large river passage with whiter formations than those in Wales.
Exited the cave at 5pm, five hours underground, and off for a beer and boiled rice, chicken soup and vegetables. Arrived back at Yala at 8pm and straight out, after repairing the jammed survey tape, for a beer and fried pork stir fry. Six stir fries, four large beers, a coke and two coffees cost £6.
Comments for the day –
Martin – “If we are going caving tomorrow on the first day.” I didn’t understand either!
Helmut – “We could cave over new years eve, go in on old years night and come out in 2001.” Martin – “If you do this I will go, with Laura to a bar.”
Martin – Looking at the Thai TV in a bar – “She put that in her mouth all in one go” we all quickly looked around to discover the object was an egg.
Laura to Martin when he was talking about his visit to Jeanies Bar in Satun earlier in February 2000 – “You old tart!”
Saturday 30 December 2000
Gwen's leg was hurting from a pulled tendon and so she decided not to cave today. Chinese breakfast this morning –soup – garlic, tofu, egg, chicken and noodles.
[Liz sent me an e-mail relating to this breakfast] - Remember on the second morning in Yala we had the Chinese noodle soup for breakfast with the slimy brown cubes. We wondered if they were liver or tofu. Well I've found out what they are..................... Chunks of congealed blood. When the blood is cooked it turns brown, and is served as pudding- like cubes, shimmering and bouncy. Hence the taste like liver. It must be a speciality of that shop. The Chinese eat this delicacy. Obviously their version of black pudding.]
Tham Lod/Tham Krachaeng System – Yala province, Thailand.
– Alan, Helmut, Liz, Martin & Richard.
LocationNorthEastTham Lod/Krachaeng system sink06° 10.919’101° 11.587’Through arch to small temple cave06° 12.714’101° 12.119’
Firstly to the Tham Krachaeng resurgence mentioned in Liz’s article extracted from International Caver. What an impressive entrance, a massive 100m high hill containing a natural rock arch that the river flows through for a distance of 100m. After walking though the arch by the side of the river we tried to find the monks cave but only succeeded in finding the lower cave – the path to the upper cave and the monk had disappeared.
Then to look at the resurgence. A large river flows from the cave and about 50m inside the way on is blocked by a gour 5m high and 10m wide, which extends 50m inside the cave. The river flows beneath the gour. Helmut climbed the gour looking for insects and to search for the Liphistius spiders he had seen there on a previous visit. There are about 50 species of this genus distributed from Sumatra to Burma. This spider is a living fossil as it has a segmented abdomen, which is not present in today's spiders. A similar fossilised spider has been found from the Carboniferous period. These trapdoor spiders live on the cave wall; they construct a silken nest and camouflage it with mud. There is a trapdoor at the entrance from which radiate eight tripwires. The spider sits with a leg on each thread. If the threads are disturbed the spider feels the vibration and rushes out of the nest, grabs the prey and then retreats back inside. Two were captured and these will be sent off for identification. They probably belong to a new species.
Then a 10km drive around to the sink to the south of the Tham Lod entrance and just south of Ban Than To. A whole group of 15 Thai forestry workers were fascinated with the antics of the cavers and watched with great interest. Alan changed into the soaking caving clothes that he wore yesterday whilst Helmut explored the cliff faces above the sink. Alan waded across the river then had to clamber across a floating matting of pieces of logs and coconuts. The coconuts were cleared away from the slit entrance which was half a metre wide and a metre high. Alan squeezed through, whilst Martin backed him up, and after a 2m climb down Alan dropped into a chamber 2m square with about 10% of the rivers volume entering from the roof. It fell the 2m into a diamond shaped slot half a metre across and almost filled the slot. Alan pulled a few coconuts from the slot but the way on looked blocked and it would have been hazardous to go any further.
Helmut scrambled up the cliff face high above the sink and found many large blocks with gaps but no obvious entrances to higher level passages. However five hungry leeches found Helmut. Alan looked at the boulders to the left hand side of the entrance and the river could be heard tumbling through the boulder ruckle which was underwater. A way through the boulders above could be seen but this only led to the cliff above.
Washed the mud and debris from myself in the river, the Thai people stared in awe at an English person washing in the river.
A good meal with water to drink at only 40p each then a drive round to the Tham Lod entrance that was explored yesterday. The purpose of today's visit is to climb the mud bank attempted yesterday – in the morning before we left Yala we bought coconut splitters which are shaped like the end of a spear. These will be stuck into the mud to form footholds. We didn’t think the locals in the shop could understand why we would want to purchase these items. Also we would complete the survey in the side passage and have another look at the complex upstream boulder choke – also at the shop we purchased balls of string for route finding in the complex maze of the boulder choke. Driving down the track to the cave we noticed that the river was now a dirty brown colour, flowing faster and looking deeper than we remembered yesterday.
We changed once again into the wet clothes to see if we could get into the entrance. At this point a local came up to us and luckily spoke Malay so Liz could translate. He warned us of the higher river levels. After the 1km walk to the river bank we got to the step down into the river, the distance to the water surface today was 50cm less than yesterday. The flow of the river was too fast for safety especially as yesterday we were wading in two places at chest depth inside the cave.
We then walked down to the cave entrance through plantations of banana, durian (a strange smelling and tasting fruit, which has been likened to the smell of open sewers, although Alan thought they tasted OK. Liz’s description is eating cheese and onions in the gent’s toilet – but they taste great), rambutan (a soft red spiny covering is broken away to reveal a delicious close relative to the lychee) and rubber trees. It was impossible to get into the entrance due to the flow of the river. Helmut tried to get into the river but could not feel the bottom. Debris was being quickly swept into the cave. Alan said if we entered the water we would know what it would be like to be the other end of a coconut shy since if we got into the water the floating coconuts would be projected at us like missiles!
Back to the van and a drive back around to the resurgence Tham Krachaeng looked at earlier in the day to see if water levels had risen there. On the way around a small hole, 2m in diameter, was spotted just 10m from the roadside. It looked man-made.
We then drove on to look at the Than Krachaeng resurgence to see how much it had risen with the increase in the volume flowing in from the Tham Lod entrance since we had viewed it earlier that morning. It was estimated that the river had risen to a maximum of 20cm. A long discussion on water levels ensued –
The water at the sink, that was explored earlier in the morning, had dropped about 10cm, this could be seen from the level on the rocks.
The water at the Tham Lod entrance had risen 50cm
The water at the Tham Krachaeng resurgence had risen by 20cm
It was concluded that the river that flows into the top sink must come from a different catchement area than the Tham Lod river – this will have to be confirmed when a large scale map of the area can be obtained. This would probably account for the difference in temperatures of the two water sources. Since there was a smaller rise in water level at the resurgence than expected this could be due to the resurgence boulder choke holding back a volume of water.
On return to the UK Liz provided a list of Thailand’s top ten caves, by length (cave name, province then length) –
1. Tham Phra Wang Daeng Phitsanulok 13114 m
2. Tham Nam Mae Lana Mae Hong Son 12600 m
3. Tham Nam Lang Mae Hong Son 8550 m
4. Tham Luang Chiang Rai 6220 m
5. Tham Takobi Tak 5760 m
6. Tham Krachaeng Yala 5633 m
7. Tham Chiang Dao Chiang Mai 5190 m
8. Long Snake Mae Hong Son 4442 m
9. Tham Ban Nam Mut Kanchanaburi 4161 m
10.Tham Yai Phetchaun 4150 m
Apparently the Shepton Mallet Caving Club had found Tham Takobi which is greater in length than Tham Krachaeng by some 127m. If the river height had not prevented us returning perhaps ACG/CSS/Germany would have fifth place.
On the way back we stopped at the hole by the road which we had spotted before and Helmut and Martin explored the cave. After a climb down for about 4m there were two drops on the right, about 5m deep, that would require SRT equipment to explore. An old shovel used to mine the bat guano was found here. From here the chamber became larger and then on the left of that chamber two crawls could be seen both sloping up at 45°. A short climb then a squeeze under a boulder leads to another 45° upslope with very slippery guano under foot. Large horseshoe bats with a body length of 20cm were disturbed in this area. The passages of this cave are round and water worn. The cave continues, still ascending but became too slippery to continue. The final chamber was draughting and probably exits to holes on the top of the hill. Whilst Helmut explored the end chamber Martin sat tight as his light had failed. Of course Helmut disturbed the bats which flew closely past Martin one even landing and pitching on his back.
Whilst the cave was being explored Liz and Alan waited in the entrance deciding on what to call the cave. About 10m from the entrance was an election poster showing three men so Alan suggested Three Men Cave. Liz pulled a face then pointed out two other posters each 10m apart the first showing two men and the second showing one man. Both together Alan and Liz said “and his dog”. So the cave will be called Dog Cave – Tham Hma (pronounced Ma). Cave length approximately 120m. Whilst we were finishing the exploration police in a van stopped to see what was going on (in general the Thai people are very curious and on several occasions people would stop and stare and even try and ask what we were doing – all in a very friendly manner) then they spotted we were English Cavers, laughed and drove off.
After Helmut and Martin had cleaned up we went back to the hotel to wash and change. Gwen and Laura had been out on a food adventure all day. Went to a Chinese for the evening had a hot hot chilli seafood and noodle soup (tomyam). On the way to the restaurant, going past the dimly lit shops, Richard fell, and jammed one foot in an uncovered storm drain about half a metre deep and 15cm wide. He had a nasty gash on his shin and was lucky not to break his leg.
Then on to a bar for beer. The only table left was right in front of the TV set which was surrounded by quiet Thai people avidly watching the live Saturday afternoon football match between Newcastle and Manchester United. We sat at the front table and to the horror of the Thai people just chatted totally ignoring the match. After 6 beers the noise of the match got to us and so we returned to the hotel for several beers more only to be confronted by yet another TV showing Thai boxing.
Sunday 31 December 2000
There was torrential rain this morning. Duck, rice and coffee for breakfast. Left the Hotel at 10am the total bill for the hotel for 3 nights for 7 people was 2,700B (£43).
Drove to a temple cave 5km from Yala, Wat Khuha Phimuk (Temple of Khoo Ha Phimuk). Two long flights of steps, with dragon handrails, lead to the higher cave, which was a Buddhist temple with many Buddha’s in all positions surrounding the temple. The largest was a reclining Buddha about 7m high and 20m long. To walk around the cave temple we all took our shoes off and due to the rain the floor was very slippery. Meanwhile a local man kept his shoes on! For Thais this is one of the most venerated Buddhist pilgrimage points in Southern Thailand. The Srivijaya-period cave temple was established around 750AD.
Then down to the river level to explore the lower tourist cave Tham Mud. A couple of minutes walk to the entrance through the rain which was now of monsoon quantities. Unfortunately the cave was closed, the man in the booth selling artefacts and charms was asked and he said that the cave was closed for the day, but Alan could not understand why. Liz thought it was now closed permanently, although had visited it in 1993.
Now heading west to Satun to celebrate New Years Eve and also hoping for good weather.
Arrived in Satun at 4pm shopping for T-shirts only £2 each. We all stayed at the Satultanee Hotel, which costs, for the four rooms for the seven of us, 1,320B (£25) basic and clean. Condoms on the dressing table but no ash tray (how can you have a smoke afterwards!) Beer in a small restaurant, followed by an email session, then back to the hotel for a shower.
Out to celebrate New Years Eve at 7:30pm. Caught a songthaew, (a small pickup truck with two rows of bench seats down the sides. They sometimes operate fixed routes, like buses, but they may also run a share-taxi type of service or even be booked individually just like a taxi. A cheap form of transport), to the next village. Martin’s night tonight he was organising the entertainment as he had been dreaming of returning to Jeanies Bar for the past 10 months since he was last there. The songthaew took us to the next village where we had to get the help of a Muslim who spoke Malay, Thai and English to explain to the driver the way to the bar. We thought this quite ironic asking a non-drinking Muslim the way to a bar; but he knew anyway. Then onwards, the bar being 24km from Satun. The deal with the driver was 600B if the bar was closed and 800B if he waited until we finished drinking. He did well from the deal as the whole 48km drive would have earned him about 4 day’s wages.
When Martin met Jeanie, the lady that had been on his mind, he claimed he did not recognise her but for some strange reason recognised her car! Perhaps this was because her husband was with her or more probably due to Martin’s poor memory. We ate and drunk well and were made very welcome, leaving at 10:30. On the way back to Satun the driver detoured through his village and so he could show all his family the stupid foreigners paying all this money for such a short ride. They all came around the songthaew smiling and laughing and wishing us happy new year. When we arrived back in Satun somehow we ended up in a Thai karaoke bar much to the amazement of several members of the group – a strange place to go especially as all of the party claimed they could not sing. We had a great time, more beer, setting off Chinese firecrackers and singing auld langs syne (very strange to the Thai people even though two joined in), then the conga around the restaurant with about ten Thai people joining in although they did not understand what they were doing. The ice was broken two of the Thai teenagers got on stage and sung English songs – much clapping from our party who were all wearing silly party hats. Not to be outdone Laura, supported by Richard, got on stage and sung the theme tune from Titanic.
A great time was had with both Thai, English and German all laughing and joking together. Bed at 2:15am.
Comments for the day –
Martin – “Am I where I think I am Liz?”
Helmut – “Never kiss a woman that is wearing mosquito repellent, you will taste it for four days afterwards.”
Monday 1 January 2001
Breakfast at 9am, hot curry and rice on a new years eve stomach but the strong hot coffee helped.
Off to Trang at 10am. Unfortunately the reference book on caves that we were using for this leg of the journey was still in Martin’s rucksack which had still not been returned by KLM and so we were going to Trang to cave in some of the caves that Liz remembered or so we thought.
From Satun we headed north and then west onto the 4137 to Khuan Kalong. A few kilometres down this road we stopped at Aon’s house, (our driver), to meet his family, all the neighbours and many children joined us about 20 in all. They kindly brought us plates and plates of good home cooked food, not to mention a basket of beer. After half an hour the shyness of the children evaporated and we had fun joking with them. We all spent about 1½ hours there relaxing and trying to understand each other. Much amusement when we told them our ages we don’t know if this was because they thought that we were older or younger?
Off again to Trang at 12:30pm. However Liz knew of two caves along the road before Khuan Tho which she had tried to find in September but hadn’t realised how far they were from the junction. They are signposted from the main road, but no distance is given. The first 10km of road was poor but the next 20km was rutted dirt track; the whole 30km taking 1½ hours.
It is probably worth explaining both the Malaysian and Thai relationship with caves at this point –
Temple caves in Malaysia and Thailand have religious significance as they are traditionally peaceful places for meditation, for the Buddhist and Hindu faiths. A secondary function of caves is that the entrances are local tourist attractions and it is common to picnic outside. There is no charge to enter these caves. In general show caves in the European sense do not exist and thus there are no places to eat or buy souvenirs. These caves have not been surveyed or properly explored although they are well known to the locals in the immediate neighbourhood.
Golden Bell Cave – Tham Rakhang Thong - Satun province, Thailand.
- Alan, Gwen, Helmut, Liz, Martin & Richard.
LocationNorthEastGolden Bell Cave07° 05.688’099° 55.050’
We arrived at the first cave Golden Bell Cave, and the sign said – “seek peace of mind for yourself.” A Buddhist monk showed us the routes to the cave entrances. In the first alcove was the Buddhist shrine which was linked to a smaller alcove by a short through passage. Sitting around a small pool was a group of eight toads looking very serene, it must be the influence of the monk.
The way on to the large cave was a short walk around a large limestone cliff through the forest. A walk in entrance and on the majority of climbs you were assisted by roughly made ladders and bamboo handrails which were quite shaky.
Spent about an hour exploring the many interconnecting passages. A complex large system with several skylights and views over the jungle from holes in the cliff face. All the group split into parties of one or two during the exploration. Impressive large formations and the whole cave was very dry, and also lit in parts by electric light. There was no literature available and the cave would be well worth exploring properly and surveying.
There was another cave signposted in the vicinity, but we did not visit it. It is Jetkhod a river cave. According to John Dunkley’s book (The Caves of Thailand) Tham Jet Khod is 719m long.
Tham Phuphaphet – Satun province, Thailand.
- Alan, Gwen, Helmut, Liz, Martin & Richard.
LocationNorthEastTham Phuphaphet (car park)07° 07.521’099° 59.844’Tham Phuphaphet cave entrance07° 07.683’ 099° 59.717’
We now headed for the other cave mentioned on the sign post and the track between the caves led through vast amounts of tower karst limestone – there must be enormous potential for cave discovery here. At one point we stopped the van to look at a tower karst approximately 150m high that was pierced about of the way up and so the sky can be seen through the hole. (07° 05.843’ N,
099° 58.539’ E) Near the top of the tower, jutting out horizontally, a cycad was growing. They are a primitive flowerless palm like plants. Their origin goes back about 200 million years to the age of reptiles and they are quite rare. It was Cycas clivicola, one of the ten species of cycads occuring naturally in Thailand
Description of Tower Karst (Turmkarst) - This variety of karst landscape occurs mainly in tropical areas. Thick limestones are divided into blocks by a grid of joints and fractures. Solution produces deep rugged gorges along the joints and fractures, dividing the mass of limestone into isolated blocks. Because the water dissolving the gorges drains to the subsurface, the gorges are not integrated into a valley system. In some localities, the intervening blocks are rounded into closely spaced conical hills (cone karst). In others, the deepening gorges reach a base level and begin to widen. Sufficient widening may create a lower-level plain from which the remnants of the limestone blocks stand out as isolated, near-vertical towers (tower karst). The cones and towers themselves are sculptured by solution, so that the rock surface is covered by jagged pinnacles and often punctuated by pits and crevices. (Internet)
On the journey to Tham Phuphaphet we saw several scarecrows outside some houses and did not understand their purpose. At a later date Liz found out – as this year is the Chinese year of the snake the scarecrow is to scare off the snakes and so if a baby boy is born he will not be taken away by the snake.
The next cave, which turned out to be two, was a 10km drive along a very rough track. We reached the caves at 4:45pm so only had time to look at one of them, Tham Phuphaphet Cave. A very steep 15 minute climb up a rough track winding its way up the hillside leads to an alcove in the rock. We were all very hot and sticky after the climb and were quite disappointed – the alcove was about the size of a large room and in one corner was a Buddhist shrine and the other contained the monk’s bed. At the far end of the alcove was a one meter diameter insignificant hole – not much of a cave here we all thought, all this effort climbing up for this! Stooping through this hole we were confronted by an enormous chamber, our lights could not penetrate the darkness to determine its size. Surrounding us were formations of gigantic proportions about 20m high but it was very difficult to estimate heights or sizes in this vast cavern.
Down a rickety ladder for 10m took us to another level. An easy circular walk with various ladders up and down led around the circumference of the chamber passing many formations of similar proportions. Very unusual formations. In several places in the roof above, which could not be seen, we could hear the twittering of many bats and see the corresponding piles and piles of guano on the floor. The cave was quite unspoilt – no litter, no graffiti and the formations were intact. Helmut collected insects and also found the skull of a bat which he identified as an insect eating bat – this will be sent off for full identification. The unofficial local guides were hurrying us around, they kept mentioning 6 o’clock – we think they wanted to go home for tea.
Several side passages were seen but not looked at. Near the end of the tour we saw a huntsman spider the size of a man’s outstretched hand with banded black and yellow legs and a golden eyes. Most probably it is a species of Heteropoda. Toads were also spotted near the entrance. This cave is a tourist cave of world standing and during discussions at the evening meal it was agreed that on our return to Satun we would spend a day surveying around the cave circumference.
The driver told us that the other cave was at ground level and not far away, it is called Tham Khong Khalod. The drive back the 30km took 1½ hours and it was decided to stay in a town called La Ngu and head for Trang tomorrow. Hotel costs 270B and 350B for the Rhys family. Funnily enough the hotel we chose was in the centre of the red light area, and there was much coming and going to the hotel bedrooms by men on mopeds throughout the night. Martin left his door ajar – hopefully (no comment from Martin). We christened this hotel comings and goings.
Helmut’s English translation of Tham Khong Khalod - Khongkha: a river
-- Tham Khong Khalod is accordingly the "Rivertunnel Cave" (You see the problem with breaking Thai writings into words).
Tuesday 2 January 2001
Breakfast of sticky sweet rice wrapped in banana leaves, biscuits and coffee although Helmut and Gwen found it quite difficult to order Chinese tea without condensed milk and sugar.
Off again on the road for Trang at 9am. Stopped at Li Peng (on the 416) to look briefly the entrance to the large river cave Tham Khao Ting. Arrived at Trang at 11am, had a snack, found an ATM machine to get some money. It is worth noting that it is easier to withdraw cash using ATMs rather than changing travellers cheques, as then you don’t have to rely on the bank being open. Now heading for the beach at Pak Meng. On the way we tried to negotiate a good price for a hotel but we were only offered one on the island of Ko Hai the cost being 800B per room (600B more than we usually pay) plus a cost of 300B each for the boat ride there and back. So we spent the rest of the day on or around the beach – the food stalls by the side of the road were all selling wonderful food.
Helmut’s English translation of Tham Khao Ting - Khao: Mountain. Ting: to protest, to cross-question, to cross-examine-- doesn't make much sense. I would keep it as "Cave of Mount Ting"
Now heading back into Trang to look for accommodation at a better price. Found a hotel cheap cheerful and clean for 180B for a single room the Koh Teng Hotel. Out for an excellent Thai meal on the sitting at tables on the pavement – cost for 5 beers and 7 large meals 550B.
Whilst finishing the meal a table next to ours was cleared and the plates and waste put into a bucket and left on the pavement. A well looked after Chow dog was being taken for a walk on a lead and of course relieved himself on the bucket! By the way we have all been eating local food no upset stomachs yet.
Comments for the day –
Gwen – Whilst talking about the lemonade she had for breakfast – “It’s like frozen ice cubes.”
Helmut – While eating his evening meal – “That reminds me I must have some rice to feed the cockroaches I found in the caves.”
Wednesday 3 January 2001
All got up and straight off to the beach resort at Pak Meng. Had breakfast of omelette stuffed with pork. Then off on an expensive boat ride 2,000B (£32) but not too bad when the cost is split seven ways. We passed large and small islands of tower karst just jutting out of the sea. The boat stopped about 30m from a swim in cave entrance in the tower karst island. The cave was called Tham Morakot (Emerald Cave). We plunged into the crystal clear water, which was estimated to be 20m deep, swimming amongst the tropical fish you see in marine fish tanks. Below were sporadic groups of coral and a half metre long brightly coloured parrot fish was nibbling on them. Alan swam into the cave entrance and there were formations hanging down from the roof coloured white, brown and green (probably from algae growing on them). Swimming around a corner Alan was confronted by a blackness ahead in the cave and so he retreated. He then spent about ¾ of an hour snorkelling amongst the tropical fish and only found, when he got back in the boat that the dark stretch of the cave was very short and this then led through to an enclosed beach. Helmut, Liz, Martin and Richard swam through. Helmut provided a description of the cave –
The tunnel is 5m wide and about 6m high and when you swim into the dark area the tunnel is almost straight. Noises like groaning occurs in this area due to the water movement in the side niches. During the swim through the dark area an exit into daylight appears from the left then 3m further on you swim around a right hand bend and onto a small beach. The total length of the swim is 80m. The beach is enclosed by a wang 50m in diameter and between 30 to 70m high. There is a little vegetation around the beach and the wang is partially overgrown. Formations, in the cave, are large with flowstone and a gour pool above the water line. Helmut and Liz returned and found Martin and Richard just setting off into the cave having waited for a guide to take them in! Martin was towed back through the cave from the beach by a young lad as he found swimming whilst wearing a lifejacket was awkward.
The boat then took us around the island to a beach and we lunched there and arrived back at the mainland at 3pm. Another swim, from the beach, for Richard and Alan but no fish were seen as the visibility was only 3m. Gwen Liz and Helmut went to look at a boat graveyard and collected some exotic sea shells from the far end of the beach.
We returned to the hotel in Trang and the laundry Gwen and Alan had left at reception when we left today had been delivered clean and pressed back to our room far cleaner than it is possible to get back home. Somehow they had even managed to wash all the muddy stains from my caving shorts. Cost for 15 items 160B (£3). Shopping followed by an e-mail session to the Caving Club then a beer and a meal. Cost for 7 beers, coke, water and 7 varieties of Thai meals with boiled rice only £10.50.
The group decided to split into two parties after exploring the river cave Tham Khao Ting (we saw this briefly on 2 January) Richard, Laura and Martin who will visit the Langkawi beaches (an island off the coastline of Northern Malaysia). The caving party being Helmut, Liz, Alan and Gwen who would survey the circumference of the massive chamber in Tham Phuphaphet Cave, explore side passages, visit the nearby cave Tham Khong Khalod to see if there is a possible link with the cave above, Tham Phuphaphet.
Whilst in the room last night, after we had been dropped of by the driver Alan realised that he had left his camera in the van. He thought, no problem, it will be in the van tomorrow morning. Whilst cleaning out the van the driver found the camera and he spent 2 hours driving around the city of Trang on a moped before he found us to return the camera. He said that he was very worried and would not have been able to sleep if he had not returned the camera.
Comments for the day –
Alan was very boring for the entire boat ride sitting in the shade whilst the others soaked up the sun. Even so he still managed to get one foot and a knee sunburnt!
Thursday 4 January 2001
This morning Martin had a surprise when he got up he decided to clean his teeth and reached into his toilet bag and squeezed the paste from the tube without putting his glasses on. This tastes very strange he thought – he had brushed his teeth with Savlon. Alan then related a similar tale about a friend of his who had brushed his teeth with pile cream!
Now off on our way back south to Li Peng, which was visited on 2 January, to cave in Tham Khao Ting.
Tham Khao Ting – Trang province, Thailand.
– Alan, Helmut, Liz, Martin & Richard.
LocationNorthEastTham Khao Ting07° 09.538’099° 48.091’
The Caves of Thailand by John R Dunkley (p114 para. 1.4) quotes the following relating to this cave -
Tham Khao Ting – >300m
Beside the MR416 16km north of Thung Wa, 91km north of Satun, 2km south of Ban Li Pang, at north end of a glade between limestone ridges about 100 – 150m high. An active stream inflow cave with a wooden walkway leading to a dry upper level 10 – 15m wide and up to 10m high containing picnic tables and some evidence of a tributary stream active in the wet season.
As can be seen from the description below, and the sketch, the description in the Caves of Thailand does not tally with this cave which was estimated to be greater in length than 500m and has no upper series.
Arrived at the cave at 11am. Crossed the river and a walk along the bank under overhanging cave passage then into the cave itself. Helmut collected insects – three small spiders, cave crickets and various other small insects in the bat guano. Bats were seen flying and hanging in the roof. Liz nearly trod on a twig which suddenly slithered off. It was a small snake ½m long, brown with a patterned back and red with a criss-cross pattern on its side. Several photographs were taken but when Helmut went too close the snake fell into the water and luckily (since we were heading downstream) swam upstream. It was later identified from the photograph as Triangle Keelback (Xenochrophis trianguligerus), a non-poisonous snake most probably hunting for amphibians and fish. A large species, up to 1.2 m, found in Thailand from Ranong Province south to the Malaysian border. Its range continues through Malaysia into western Indonesia and is also found in Burma. Semiaquatic it can move rapidly on land. When fleeing, has the peculiar habit to spring off ground for short distances.
Martin and Richard explored part of the dry upstream series whilst Liz and Alan traced the stream in this part of the cave to its source. Four exits were seen on the left hand bank going upstream and one on the right hand bank. Liz and Alan left from the uppermost exit and after going through gardens, clambering over a barbed wire fence and going around some rocks we arrived back at the first (river) entrance. Going back in again we met up with Martin and Richard. Helmut was still collecting insects.
Now Alan and Liz explored the down stream series. This involved a 10m swim, going with the current, to a gravel bank. A short traverse along the cave wall, above the river, led to a 60° sloping mud bank, which was 4m high. Liz picked a steeper slope and just kept slipping back into the water. Alan moved to another point where the mud was softer, kicked an initial foothold then with a technique of quickly kicking footholds and plunging outstretched fingers into the mud just managed to get to the top.
This led to a large chamber 30m high with good formations. The passage continued onwards which was generally 10m wide and mud filled. We climbed around a green pool surrounded in mud banks then into another mud filled passage with smaller formations. Alan crawled this for 120m and it seemed to be closing down – as Liz says if the cave passages in Malaysia and Thailand cannot be walked they are not worth looking at – but I suppose I still have the Mendip mentality.
We then returned, Alan getting lost five times on the way. Liz followed Alan into an oxbow of smelly mud and as they sunk up to their ankles he told Liz that he always gets lost in caves as his sense of direction underground is non-existent!
When we reached the river junction Martin and Richard had disappeared to have a beer leaving Helmut as a lighthouse. Liz then went to explore the downstream river passage and was molested by an over friendly, hopefully male, catfish. There was a small chamber on the left hand side full of logs and flood debris including plastic and bottles. Liz explored in a northerly direction for 70m and could hear the river rumbling in the distance.
Meanwhile Alan decided to swim back across the river, against the strong current, from another river bank rather than the gravel bank. This involved a swim of 20m, after swimming 10m he realised that he was getting very tired as swimming against the current with waterlogged heavy caving boots is not efficient and my forward progress was zero. Since he was now very tired he turned around and headed downstream again towards the closer gravel bank. After about three minutes Alan had regained his breath and Liz and Alan traversed around the rock partially in the water, heading upstream. The swim then was only 5m and this was accomplished without difficulty. A few anxious moments on the first swim! The three of us left the cave and joined the others who were drinking beer in true MRO fashion.
On exiting the cave Liz and Alan body rafted in the fast river for 5 minutes to clean our kit. Alan then changed and walked over the brow of the hill to see where the river emerged from as we thought it may go to another outcrop of limestone just the other side of the road. Down the other side of the hill and Alan could see no sign of the river on the far side of the road so he walked further down and found a track on the left which he followed for 250m. Then the limestone cliff was rejoined which was followed around and there was the resurgence. Alan joined the rest of the party for a beer and then we all returned to explore the resurgence, in true caver fashion – no one brought a light. We clambered around the rocks and entered the cave clambering around in the semi darkness. In the distance, about 100m from the entrance, was another skylight. This cave would make a wonderful float through trip. It should be surveyed.
Then drove to Pak Bara and found some cheap accommodation 250B per night, and the others headed off for Langkawi. We explored Pak Bara, just a single main street containing bars, supermarkets and food shops. We spent the rest of the evening in a beach side bar.
Friday 5 January 2001
The recovery of Martin’s rucksack – Martin, Richard and Laura spent last night in Satun and arose at 6am to catch the 8:30am ferry. They arrived at the port of Kuah (Langkawi) and were through immigration at noon. They found a boatman to take them to Pulau Tuba and met with Gahsri (their host on the island). Eventually with Gahsri’s help the missing rucksack was tracked down and it was arranged for it to be delivered to the MAS office at Kuah. The next day the rucksack was reunited with Martin after a gap of eleven days! On the return boat trip to Pulau Tuba Gahsri’s boat runs out of petrol and the group were only just able to make the shore – no oars!
An early start at 7:45am with breakfast of coffee and donuts watching the goats wander up and across the main road. Whilst having breakfast, by the side of the road, we were approached by two people in a pick-up truck. We thought they wanted to take us on a tourist trip. On returning to the hotel we found them waiting for us and it turned out that they were our lift to the cave today – we all laughed together at our misunderstanding.
Started the journey to the cave at 8:45 and stopped in La Ngu and bought 5 packs of carbide. After an hour on the road we then started along the bumpy track and arrived at the caves at 10:45. A quick change and off to look at Tham Khong Khalod which turned out to be a river cave. We estimate that the river (sink) flows into the hill almost directly underneath the main entrance to Tham Phuphaphet above. Helmut explored upstream for 200m - meandering river passage with low ceiling between two to three metres high, nice formations with gravel banks on both sides of the river and large amounts of debris. For the distance explored there were no side passages or upper chambers.
Tham Phuphaphet -– Satun Area, Thailand.
- Alan, Gwen, Helmut, Liz.
Then up the steep track to survey the circumference of Tham Phuphaphet entering the cave at 11:30am. Starting from the entrance and surveying clockwise around what we assumed was one very large chamber and only measuring the distance to the left hand wall. Surveyed across the bat chamber to the point where the guides, who were hurrying us around on the visit on 1 January, said we would fall through the guano. Although it was very thick with a crumbly crust we didn’t fall through although Helmut delved in it for insects. He found cockroaches, which were thought to be two species, (when theses were identified in the laboratory it turned out that both are the same, the banded ones are the males, the unbanded ones the females) cave crickets, earwigs – black and brown, a few different spiders, millipedes, black beetles, ants and a few bat skulls.
We surveyed down a steep slope from the bat chamber and were very surprised to see daylight entering from near the roof. It was a large entrance. Helmut and Alan climbed up the 45° sloping dry mud bank to a height of about 50m. To climb out of this entrance would involve a tricky climb up a 3m high rift then what looked like a scramble up a boulder slope to exit the cave. It was very picturesque looking out of this exist as growing all around were large palm trees. Looking back from the top of the slope another chamber could be seen on the high on right hand side of the cave and facing towards the daylight, there were large formations and jungle in this alcove (#) which could link with the main cave system.
A snack and then we explored the two side passages. Looking up towards the large exit at the top of the slope we first explored the left passage. A 2m high 4m wide passage with many beautiful formations was followed in a meandering fashion for 50m. We then entered a large chamber and the old level of the water line could be seen around the whole chamber. Below the water line were fine coral like formations. Helmut climbed to the top of the chamber and a way on could be seen [I wonder if this could connect with the alcove (#) mentioned above?]
The right hand passage was explored. A series of massive wide shallow dry gour pools were crossed going downslope. We then heard the river in the distance and Helmut followed the gours downwards which allowed you to step across the deep rift, containing the river, in safety. A natural bridge was seen comprising of four balancing boulders. Another passage was followed for 50m to a 2m wide canyon and stones were dropped down – approximate depth to splash 20m.
Then back to surveying. Another side passage was also found with a 20m drop also to the river. Near the end of the survey where leaves were seen on the floor, at a high level, was another entrance 5m wide which Helmut exited and this had views over the jungle.
Finished the 70 leg survey at 6pm. Arrived back at the hotel at 8:30pm. The journey to and from this cave is very tiring taking a four hour trip in a pick-up truck just seated on the ridged floor in the back and being shaken and jolted around for the 20km of the rough track. A shower to get the bat guano off took a good scrubbing. Out for a beer and a much needed food. The first time we have seen rain (a small shower) since we left Yala.
On reviewing the sketches of the entrances to Tham Phuphaphet with the north south orientation annotated it was concluded that the main entrance is on one side of the hill and the very large entrance, past the bat chamber is on the other side of the hill. Also Tham Phuphapet Cave is one massive chamber.
To bed at 11:45pm.
Funnily enough the hotel we stayed in at Pak Bara was also in a red light area and there was much banging of doors and revving of mopeds during the night. We christened this hotel in and outs.
Comments for the day –
Gwen had bat shit in her hair today.
Saturday 6 January 2001
Up at 7am and on the road at 8:15. Breakfast of chilli chicken, vegetables and rice plus two coffees cost 35B (40p). We stopped at the pick-up driver’s house and this took some time as the whole family were there. So we did not leave for the track until 10:15. The plan for today is to explore the river cave Tham Khong Khalod and try for a connection with the cave above Tham Phuphaphet and also push the river cave to find the resurgence.
Election day today in Thailand, we wondered if three men, two men or one man will win? It is law to vote in Thailand.
Tham Khong Khalod -– Satun Area, Thailand.
- Alan, Gwen, Helmut, Liz.
Arrived at the car park at 12pm, changed and headed off for Tham Khong Khalod. We were followed by a local man in flip flops, carrying a small carbide lamp; his right arm had been amputated just below his elbow. We surveyed down the meandering river passage passing large formations and at one point had to climb up and across a 1.5m high and 2m wide pure white beautiful active gour pool 15m long. The deepest water was up to chest level although at one point we had to crawl in the water to get under a formation. From survey station 22 onwards a large rift was present in the roof, always higher than 15m. From station 51 (last station) the passage narrowed and the water deepened, a very strong draught could be felt here. A way on could be seen for 25m but the surface of the water was covered in debris and also underwater the bed of the river was covered with sunken debris – thus the survey had to be terminated. Ahead the river could be heard but further exploration would require either lower river conditions or to go in on an inflated inner tube wearing life jackets.
At survey station 36 four boulders were spotted spanning the rift above, these were the same as those seen by Helmut when surveying in Tham Phuphaphet yesterday. We spotted toads, a large tadpole 10cm long, another curious catfish and a snake in the water of a similar type to that seen in Tham Khao Ting on 4 January. Exited the cave at 3:30pm, the local man was intrigued by the surveying.
Tham Phuphaphet -– Satun Area, Thailand.
- Alan, Gwen, Helmut, Liz.
Then once again up the hillside track to Tham Phuphaphet still with the local man following. The first stop was the white stalagmite flowstone with the natural hole in it leading to a drop. The local man seemed very concerned that we were going to climb down this drop but stared in absolute fascination as Helmet donned the mass of SRT equipment. Helmut tied the rope around a suitable formation, and threw the rope down. Clipped on and abseiled down 5m into a small chamber 15m in diameter with no way on, although the formations were very pretty.
On through the bat chamber to the survey point near the large entrance near the roof. We then surveyed across to the boulder bridge. This would then enable the surveys of the two caves to be orientated and one superimposed upon the other. Helmut lowered the tape, with a krab on it, and from the bridge to water level measured 14m. To close the survey loop we surveyed back round to permanent survey station 04. Helmut then moved around to a safer position to abseil down to the river below. Dropped the rope down but the 22m long rope was too short to reach the water so this had to be abandoned.
The local man was still with us and we said he must of thought us crazy charging through the cave, measuring between lumps of rock, throwing ropes down holes then pulling them back up again! In turn we thought him crazy negotiating steep mud banks with large drops beneath in flip flops which we would not have attempted in caving boots.
Back out of the cave at 6:15pm and arrived back at Pak Bara at 8:30 pm.
On return to the UK Gwen and I discussed the possibility of past explorations of Tham Phuphaphet. I searched using 15 search engines on the Internet and only found one reference –
Things to do in Satun
http://www.tat.or.th/province/south/satun/do/manang.htm
Tourist Attractions
KING AMPHOE MANANG
Tham Phuphaphet
This is a large deep cave with a spacious chamber and a high ceiling. Before the name Tham Phuphaphet was given to it, this cave was called Tham Lod, Tham Phet and Tham Yao. The name Phuphaphet means diamond cliff. This name reflects the glittering and twinkling characteristics when light shines on stalactites and stalagmites in the cave. It is located in Mu6, Ban Pa Phon, Tambon Palm Pattana of King Amphoe Manang
So it appears that this expedition were the first to explore and document this cave system. I informed Liz about this article on the Internet and she said that it was not uploaded in March 2000 when she searched. Also the names of locations given did not appear on any of her maps.
Sunday 7 January 2001
Today we will travel back to Malaysia to meet with the rest of the group on Pulau Tuba island near the island of Langkawi. The 104 islands of the Langkawi group are 30km off the coast from Kuala Perlis.
Up and packed by 8am, coffee over the road and caught a songthaew from Pak Bara to La Ngu (3km for 20B each). Bought carbide for the caving trip on Langkawi then straight onto a coach for Satun, 48km away, which also cost 20B. A late breakfast of three rotis (Indian bread) and curry plus iced coffee while waiting to head off for the ferry. Caught a songthaew from Satun to the ferry port all our heavy bags were piled on the top. The vehicle was packed and only Liz and Gwen could sit down, Helmut and Alan had to stand on the rear running board and hang onto the roof rack. 'Thought it good fun’! Cost for the 3km ride also 20B. Bought the ferry tickets from Satun to Langkawi for 190B each.
Whilst boarding the crowded ferry Gwen dropped her wallet it was returned within 10 seconds being passed from hand to hand down the length of the ferry. The ferry left at 1:30pm, we were sat in a small front cabin with about 50 other people it was very very hot even the locals were sweating. Off the boat at 3pm (4pm Malaysian time). Met up with the rest of the team and then caught the ferry across to Pulau Tuba island and met Gahsri who would be our host for the next four days. The beach is idyllic (although Helmut thought otherwise) and the chalets look over the palm trees to the beautiful bay hosing the small limestone, jungle covered, islands jutting from the sea. The beach where Gahsri lives is called Pasir Panjang (Long Beach). (06° 15.867’ N, 099° 50.867’ E)
Sat in the sea to cool off. The evening meal was chilli fish soup and rice dishes. Unfortunately Alan’s elbow had developed a large watery lump, probably an allergic reaction to a mosquito bite, and the possibility of caving tomorrow looked remote. Took an anti-histamine tablet – hope this will make the swelling go down, as tomorrow will be the last chance to cave. There was some discussion over the cost of the boat, as we found it would cost RM160, whereas when Martin and Liz did this trip in February they paid RM10.
Monday 8 January 2001
Elbow has gone down so Alan will cave today. Breakfast at 8:30 am. Hoping to get the boat across to the cave at 9:30 am. The cost of the boat ride is expensive at 160RM (£32) just to take a party of six there and back – a distance of about 8 miles round trip.
Gahsri is charging RM40 per night (£8) for food (3 meals a day) and accommodation. Beer costs RM3 a can. Compared with what we have been paying for accommodation, £3 a night, and 40p a meal this seemed expensive, but when Gwen checked up the costs of hotel accommodation on the main island of Langkawi this was RM100 for a poor hotel. Thus the costs at Gahsri’s were very reasonable.
Liz and Martin had explored some of this cave during the recce in February 2000. Liz informed us that she had been told that the reason that the cave was colloquially named as Shit Cave was because monkey shit was found in the cave entrance. However Gahsri’s version of the story is that when he and “some of his boys” first visited the cave they had the shits and were dodging all over the forest around the beach shitting – hence the name Shit Cave.
The boat, which would take us to the cave arrived at 9:15am, and after a fast ride across to the main island of Langkawi we changed on the deserted beach and entered the cave at 10am. Since the boat man would not wait for us we had to tell him the time we would be exiting the cave and 4pm was agreed upon. The cave is located on a remote beach surrounded by forest with a stream flowing from the cave entrance down onto the beach. The stream was followed up hill climbing over rocks through the forest for about 50m.
Gua Tok Yed – Pulau Langkawi, Malaysia.
Alan, Gwen, Helmut, Liz, Martin & Richard.
LocationNorthEastGua Tok Yed06° 19.120’099° 52.812’
We surveyed the cave on the way in. The cave is of typical Mendip style with narrow meandering stream passage, crawls in the stream, tight squeezes, climbs over the seven waterfalls and traverses. The last survey point was reached at 2:30pm and it was decided to return as time could be tight to meet the schedule of the boatman arriving. The survey ended in a chamber about 3m in diameter. Liz decided to explore ahead and went up a 2m climb. New territory for Liz – walking size passage then a section of ankle deep mud with water running. Then a single set of footprints was seen heading down stream – strange that there was no return set – perhaps there could be a top entrance/exit? Beyond this point the passage at river level became impenetrable, but beyond the sound of water could be heard. Then the higher level passage was explored, the stal was climbed and many bats were seen but with no obvious way on or any daylight. A mystery where the footprints came from.
Helmut collected whip scorpions, millipedes, a fresh water shrimp (5cm long), 2 large cave crickets (possibly the Egg-eating Cricket), plant hopper and a 5cm long slug brown on top and orange underneath.
Exited from the cave in an hour and a quarter. Food and water on the beach and then with impeccable timing the boatman arrived and took us back to our island.
Arrived back at 4:45pm changed and transcribed the survey data as the originals were very damp. A great meal in the evening of prawns, beef curry, rice, fish and fruit. Whilst we were eating a troupe of monkeys were seen, and heard, fighting in the forest nearby.
Tuesday 9 January 2001
Up at 7am and watched the sunrise over the beach. After a good breakfast we caught the boat to Langkawi and said goodbye to Liz who left for KL and Helmut who left for Penang by ferry. We all agreed to meet up in KL on Saturday afternoon to see Helmut's slide show of the Madagascar expedition.
We then went to a modern shopping complex near the ferry port in Kuah. The others returned to Gahsri’s beach on Pulau Tuba to lounge on the beach whilst Gwen and Alan caught a taxi to the old part of Kuah. We walked and browsed around the shops which were mostly aimed at the tourists but were able to buy some presents for back home.
Earlier this morning my little finger had started to swell up, yet another allergy to a mosquito bite? As this swelling had now spread to the hand Alan went to the pharmacy and bought 10 anti-histamine tablets for RM4. An hour later the pain in the finger had decreased. Caught the boat back to the island at 5:45pm once again a great evening meal. Shit Cave has now been renamed Gua Tok Yed (cave of the old man (grandfather) called Yed who used to own the beach. This cave is 4.3 miles from Gahsri’s beach (Pasir Panjang) on a heading of 32°.
Wednesday 10 January 2001
Up again at 7am and watched the sunrise whilst drinking coffee. A good breakfast of roti, eggs, pineapple and spicy rice.
Gwen and Alan caught the boat to Langkawi at 9:45 a 10 minute trip. Used the ATM machine to draw out RM500. The taxi ride to the other side of the island to Underwater World cost RM14. The cost to enter this attraction was RM18 each. The fish were stunning more than 5,000 varieties in 100 tanks. The largest tank was a walk through tunnel with large sea fish, sharks and turtles swimming to your left and right and overhead. Underwater World is worth a visit.
Back by taxi to the tourist office in Kuah and picked up a stack of leaflets relating to Malaysia since we will be returning. Walked back down the road looking in the shops but they were as usual aimed at the tourists. Then visited the Al-Hana Mosque but as there were men inside praying we did not enter. The inside was quite plain and did not have the luxurious carvings and drapery that we had seen in the Mosques in Tunisia.
Back to the main shopping complex and while Gwen bought a dress for RM15 (£3) Alan had curried eggs on rice and an iced coffee for RM4. Back to Gahsri’s beach by boat and arrived there at 3:30 pm. Had a drink of hibiscus juice with Gahsri and it was delicious. Yet another good meal in the evening.
Thursday 11 January 2001
After coffee off for a morning walk at 7:45am. Through the jungle track for ½km then we picked up a tarmaced path. Through three small villages, rubber plantations, forest and saw water buffalo grazing in the fields. Saw a troupe of monkeys who got very annoyed when we split the group in two as we walked along the path. Also spotted a kite, kingfishers, swallows a pheasant and egret. Arrived back at 9:45am, the others had just got up and started breakfast.
Packed our gear, for today we return to KL. We all caught the boat back to Langkawi at 4pm then hired a van to the airport. Took the 6:50pm flight to KL (cost RM140 per person) which landed at 7:50pm. The walk from the terminal plus waiting for our baggage to arrive took longer than the flight.
Had an e-mail from Liz on this topic –
From The Asian Wall Street Journal - 29th December 2000
When Kuala Lumpur built its sparkling new airport two years ago, it promised a place so great that it would be a destination in itself. Indeed, it's become more of a destination than most business travellers ever wanted -- with nearly an hours wait at the baggage carousel to claim luggage. It's not going to get faster. That's because -- in addition to sporting the world's tallest air-traffic-control tower and the largest columnless hangar -- Kuala Lumpur International Airport boasts the world's longest baggage conveyor belt system. With a total length that spans 34 kilometres, the belt takes a minimum of 25 minutes to move luggage from plane to building; 55 minutes is standard. "We understand that 55 minutes seems like a long time for a passenger who has travelled many hours, but the way the airport is built makes it impossible for us to make the time shorter," said Ibrahim Tengku Abdullah, Malaysian Airlines senior vice president of ground services.
Had a meal then said goodbye to Laura as she was flying home. Then a taxi from the airport to KL city, 80km away which cost RM80 for the four of us. Booked into the Heritage Station Hotel (directly above KL’s main railway station). The hotel was built by the British in 1900, very grand, but a bit frayed around the edges – straight out of Agatha Christie. Cost per night RM69 for the room with a complementary breakfast.
To the hotel bar for a Tiger beer RM7.50 for half a pint – the most expensive we have bought on the whole expedition.
Friday 12 January 2001
Complementary breakfast in the hotel at 9am consisted of one piece of toast and a cold fried egg plus a horrible coffee. We think we will pass on tomorrows complementary breakfast!
Gwen and Alan set out to walk to the tropical bird garden about 1½ miles from the hotel. A hot sticky morning. On the way we passed by the Police Museum so decided to have a look – free entry. A fascinating museum which provides a history of Malaysia, the police, the army plus the historical background of the Portuguese, Dutch and English occupations. A very informative well laid out museum in which we spent 1½ hours. Then the final walk to the bird gardens which were 4 acres large all enclosed with green netting with the majority of birds flying free. Both temperature and humidity had increased but we spent 1½ hours walking around it was good to see the birds flying free rather than just sitting on perches looking bored. There was no restaurant nearby and so Alan was very hungry even after such a large breakfast (!). We walked across the road to the Orchid Garden, which was beautifully laid out and packed with orchids of all varieties colours and shapes. After 20 minutes of walking Alan was flagging and had to sit down, while Gwen continued, since he now had a thumping headache and felt giddy. Gwen spent about another half hour walking around but Alan felt so bad that we had to get a taxi back to the hotel (RM7). Air conditioning on full, plenty of water, an aspirin and 2½ hours sleep and he was feeling much better. He should have known to wear a hat to protect my head from the strong sun.
Met up with Martin, Richard and Liz and went to the Chinese Market – an outside street market – a crazy place that in general specialises in “genuine fake designer items” – watches, clothes, leather goods and CD’s. The owner of the stall where Martin bought a lighter proudly showed him his business sign “You have bought your goods from – A Robin Bastard.” The market was absolutely packed out and total chaos another world from the deserted tropical island we were sitting on yesterday. Whilst Gwen and Alan were heading back to the bar to rejoin the others we met up with Helmut – quite amazing in that crowd!
So we went to a bar in the Central Market and met up with Martin, Richard and Liz, with Helmut and Liz’s boyfriend joining us later. A very good tandoori chicken and nan bread many beers, chatting and talking about the expedition. We left the bar at midnight.
Saturday 13 January 2001
Gwen and Alan were up at 8:30am and off to the Central Market – rotis for breakfast then shopping for caving postcards and presents. On our wanders through the streets around the market we found the Sri Mahamariamman temple which is painted vivid blue with large sculptures of various gods on the temple walls. The temple dates from 1873 and contains a large silver chariot dedicated to Lord Muruga. During the Thaipusam festival this chariot is the central part of a long procession to Batu Caves some 12km from KL. When we returned to the UK Liz forwarded a newspaper extract relating to this years ceremony, which we just missed -
One million devotees throng Batu Caves
KUALA LUMPUR: An estimated one million people thronged Batu Caves here to observe the new millennium's maiden Thaipusam celebrations yesterday. Amid chants of vel vel (praise to the Lord), devotees who came from all over the country braved the blazing sun to pay their annual homage to Lord Subramaniam. While some carried the pal kudam (milk pots) others pierced their bodies and carried massive kavadis in a show of complete devotion.
Back to the hotel and met up with Liz, Martin and Richard and took two taxis to the Malaysian Nature Society (Jalan Mahameru) where we met Helmut. He showed us 300 slides of last year’s expedition to Madagascar with a humorous narrative.
Back again to the Central Market for a last meal and to say goodbye to the group. Martin flies out tomorrow at 1am, Richard tomorrow at 10:30am and Gwen and Alan at 11:55pm today.
Got a taxi from the railway station to KL airport at 8pm with a crazy Chinese driver who did most of his overtaking in the inside lane at speeds of 90mph, cutting up anybody who got in his way. The 50 miles taking only 40 minutes and costing RM60.
Alan is taking back to the UK cockroaches that Helmut collected and will post them to Oxford for identification – a good job he was not asked if he packed the luggage himself.
Flight left KL at midnight.
Sunday 14 January 2001
A good 13 hour flight – slept for a few hours. Landed at Heathrow at 5:45am – very cold -2°C whilst the temperature in KL when we left was +35°C. caught the coach back to Bristol at 7:45am and arrived there at 9:45.
Conclusions
A very successful happy expedition with all objectives met. I will summarise the total lengths of cave surveyed by the expedition –
Tham Phuphapet – 623m
Tham Khong Khalod – 776m
Gua Tok Yed – 306m
Tham Lod side passage – 117m
TOTAL – 1.822km
The most impressive cave documented was Tham Phuphaphet and when the survey data was calculated the missclosure of the 1.03km loop was 1.4% - not bad after 6½ hours continuous surveying. When the survey was drawn I calculated the surface area of the floor which is 30,500sq metres. I then consulted Atlas of the Great Caves of the World (Courbon, Chabert, Bosted, Lindsley) (1989) with regard to largest chambers in the world – unfortunately they only gave the top eleven –
Sarawak Chamber – 162,700sq m
Torca del Carlista (Spain) – 76,620sq m
Majlis al Jinn (Oman) – 58,000sq m
Belize Chamber (Belize) – 50,050sq m
Salle de la Verna (France) – 45,270sq m
Gruta de Villa Garcia (Mexico) – 40,820sq m
Gruta de Palmito (Mexico) – 39,730sq m
Kocain (Turkey) – 37,200sq m
Carlsbad Cavern Big Room (USA) – 33,210sq m
Sotano de las Golondrinas (Mexico) – 33,110sq m
Chiquibul (Chamber) (Belize) – 32,090sq m
This book is now over ten years out of date and gave the rider that these measurements are to be regarded as being indicative, but certainly not definitive! However Tham Phuphaphet should rank in the world top twenty with regard to chamber size and it is definitely the largest chamber in Thailand – a significant find.
Future Expeditions
It seems that we have just scratched the surface in the areas of Thailand that we visited. Although I think the majority of caves are known and visited by the locals they have not been documented and are not listed in the reference book for caving in Thailand – John Dunkley’s – The Caves of Thailand.
A great help to a future expedition would be to obtain large scale maps of the areas to be visited. These could then be studied, in conjunction with geological maps, months before the expeditions starts. Rivers could then be seen disappearing into hillsides and reappearing on the other flank of the hill. Features like this could be found near roads or tracks to make getting to them an easy task rather than having to hack through jungle. However there may be some difficulty obtaining these maps since as the areas being explored are near to the Malaysian border they could be security classified, but Liz is investigating.
The local people are very friendly, curious and wish to help. They did not really seem to understand our purpose in going underground for hour upon hour. Due to our 100% lack of speaking Thai and their poor ability with English we were not able to ask them where other caves were – I am sure we would have been bombarded with information if only we could have asked. A way around this would be to hire a driver who can speak English.
Now progressing to additional exploration to be carried out in the caves visited during this
expedition -
Yala Area –
Tham Lod/Tham Krachaeng – survey on from the small stream inlet passage, climb the mud bank and look for more passage and upper levels.
Satun Area –
Tham Phuphaphet – survey left hand chamber near the large entrance and look for connection with large chamber overlooking the jungle. Climb out of the large entrance. Establish a physical connection with Than Khong Khalod (SRT down about 20m). Further exploration around periphery of cavern.
Tham Khong Khalod – complete a through trip of this river cave.
Golden Bell Cave – survey and document the cave
Tham Jet Kot – this cave is about 7km from Phuphaphet, we saw this signpost and is it listed in the caves of Thailand as follows –
At the end of a gorge a stream enters the 20m wide 15m high entrance. Swimming may be necessary for the first 50m, after which the stream meanders along a spacious passage with regular silt banks. A high roof hole is found about 200m from the downstream entrance, which is 50m wide, and 30m high. References – Tourist magazine 13 May 1983; NZSS map.
Tham Khao Ting – explore the ongoing mud filled passage, establish a connection with the resurgence and a complete survey of the cave system.